Wines from "Paradise"

Prior to Concha y Toro’s grand launching dinner at Shangri-La’s Cheval Blanc, Tita Trillo in her welcome remarks so rhapsodized about Chilé, which she had just visited, that we immediately felt like catching the next flight to that South American "paradise".

Tita began: "Chilé may only be 2,700 miles long and 60 to 80 miles wide but it is beautiful. The driest desert in the world bounds it on the north, Antartica and its glaciers bound it on the south. In the east, one looks up to see the awesome Andes and its snowcapped mountains whose melting snow flows and enriches the vineyards below with its minerals. On the west, it faces the Pacific Ocean. The vineyards of Concha y Toro are in Chilé’s central valley where the balanced climate nurtures the vines."

Waxing even more eloquent, Tita continued: "Well-paved roads provide quick access to the city from the innermost valleys, thus reducing the cost of produce. A crate of tomatoes is US$1! Fruits–plums, apples, peaches–and vegetables are as abundant as they must have been in the Garden of Eden in Paradise.

"The country is clean, lush, verdant; the capital, Santiago, is so well-designed and zoned, it evokes Rockwell Center. Parks and gardens abound, and the arts are prominently displayed in the plazas and everywhere else."

If Concha y Toro wines come from the "Paradise" Tita describes, then one can assume they must be excellent. Wine Master Andres Ballesteros, for his part, announced that the epicurean dinner prepared by Executive Chef Christopher Romine would be served with 2001 Sunrise Chardonnay, 2000 Casillero Chardonnay, 1998 Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon, 2000 Casillero del Diablo Cabernet Sauvignon, and 1999 Late Harvest.

Sr. Ballesteros had an amusing "horror" story to tell about the Casillero Diablo (The Devil’s Cellar). In the 18th century, the winery owner began to suspect his workers of stealing bottles of wine from the cellar. He laid a trap by telling them he would be away for a few days. Staying behind, he stealthily went down the cellar one evening and discovered the workers raiding it. Dressed like a ghoul, he was then taken for the devil himself!

Cheval Blanc’s superb menu consisted of Pan Fried Foie Gras with Caramelized Mango, Sherry Vinegar and Vanilla Bioche/Black Bean Soup with Cilantro Creme Fresh and Tomato Tartare/Chilean Seabass with Sweet Corn Cream, Red Pepper Crostini, Basil Oil/Passion Fruit Sherbet/Marinated Lamb Chops set on Roasted Eggplant and Black Olive Oil Puree, Cepes Empanada and Thai Basil Red Wine Reduction (entree)/Assorted Cheese Platter with Fig Terrine and Trilogy: Leche Asada, Avocado Ice Cream Tulip, Rosemary Amarretto Cream.

Expectedly, those who came to the launching of Concha y Toro (Shell and Bull)–this is the actual surname of the winery’s original owner–were connoisseurs, restaurateurs, wine dealers or distributors, hoteliers, gourmets and epicures. During dinner, Sr. Ballesteros went around sniffing each guest’s wine glass. All his senses were working, in fact. By the aroma, he could tell the flavor–nutty, flowery, fruity. He could see whether the wine was ruby red, white, yellowish. His palate told him, of course, whether the wine was full-bodied, smooth or mellow.

Guests, headed by Eddie and Annie Rocha, made convivial company. I was seated between Larry J. Cruz whose culinary kingdom is Malate and Louie Ysmael who is about to open a new restaurant. What I discovered about them, however, had nothing to do with wines or menus. They are Asia’s champion elephant polo players, having won their trophy in India. Earlier, I chatted with Boris Simon, a charming, refined, cultured Frenchman who, the young ladies might wish to know, is highly eligible. When Becky Garcia arrived, I thought we’d see a dance exhibition particularly because Johnny Litton and Alex Vergara seemed likely dancing partners. Mikey Fenix and I would have heartily applauded.

Of course we all figuratively applauded Sr. Ballesteros’s wines but a similarly persuasive endorsement of them came from no less than Chile’s Foreign Affairs Minister Soledad Alvear. Not too long ago, she invited the entire diplomatic corps, including our own Ambassador Ma. Consuelo Puyat-Reyes, to the Concha y Toro winery in Santiago, assuring her guests they’d be sampling Chile’s best wines!