From black magic to blackouts

Maundy Thursday night, riding a tricycle down Mt. Bandilaan – home to Siquijor’s famed healers – I looked back and gasped. The mountain behind us had disappeared into a pitch-black curtain, with not a flicker of light, not even from a firefly.

For a moment, my imagination went wild. What if, the next time I turned around, I saw a white lady in the middle of the dark, lonely road waving at me, or what if a kapre jumped onboard our trike?

I was, after all, in the fabled island, said to be the home of enchanted beings, mythological beasts, fairies and healers and shamans alike.

There’s no lack of stories of monsters and mysticism here in this province nestled in the Negros Island Region, more so during the pre-colonial times.

During our long drive in the darkness, the trike driver even talked about his encounters with white ladies through the years. “They’re beautiful,” he said. It turns out, he was referring to the blonde and blue-eyed Caucasians who visit the island.

Siquijor, population 103,395, attracts thousands of tourists every year. More than 200,000 people visited the island in 2024, unfazed by the stories and urban legends of the supernatural and mythical.

Spending the Holy Week on the island, I realized that Siquijor has so much to offer – much more than the stories of black magic and witchcraft.

There are pristine beaches and waterfalls where visitors can relax and enjoy.

There’s a widely popular centuries-old balete tree in the town of Lazi, believed to be over 400 years old. Local and foreign tourists alike flock to the towering tree, which is quite a sight with its oversized roots and shade-giving branches.

I also enjoyed the famed Cambugahay Falls, a stunning natural wonder consisting of multi-tier natural pools in jungle-like and lush surroundings. Visitors can enjoy the rope swings, from which they launch and jump to about 10 feet into the pools like Tarzan. There are also bamboo rafts for rent for those who would not dare do the jump.

I did try the jump from the rope swing – not once but twice – and enjoyed it both times.

There are many other things to see, such as the San Isidro Labrador Church, a Baroque-style 19th century Roman Catholic Church, age-old caves, coffee shops and bars and massage salons.

Of course, a visit to the island isn’t complete without meeting the faith healers. In the past, some also went to Siquijor for the occult rituals – from black magic to voodoo.

But here’s what I learned during my visit. Siquijor has a dark side – literally. The island is plagued by blackouts.

Power outages

Indeed, a major challenge in this island province is power supply.

Before I arrived on Maundy Thursday, the island was besieged by power outages almost every day. Unfortunately, not all the hotels or inns have generators, making it difficult for visitors because of the sweltering heat, even at night.

During my stay, there was one power outage incident that went on for hours which, fortunately, happened one afternoon while I was roaming the island.

It’s a serious problem. On social media, a man who identified himself as a resort owner pleaded with tourists not to come to Siqiujor during the summer. He said water is also scarce in some places.

Another post is from Philippine Expats forum on Facebook posted on April 11, 2025:

“There’s a side of this island that nobody talks about, and it’s serious. Power outages are non-stop. Almost every day, often for hours. Sometimes multiple interruptions in a single day. Businesses are suffering – food in stores and restaurants go through cycles of freezing and thawing, raising serious health risks... The island’s infrastructure is outdated and yet, local politicians do nothing. Corruption and neglect have left the electrical grid in ruins!!!”

There are many more complaints online.

It is indeed a serious problem in off-grid islands which the Department of Energy (DOE) must address.

If we are counting on tourism to help boost the local economy, we need to address basic infrastructure in remote areas of the country.

The root cause

I’m not sure of the cause of the power outage in Siquijor but it’s an issue that the DOE, the local officials, the generating company and the cooperative must address.

It may be caused by the usual problem that hounds cooperatives – corruption and mismanagement.

Last year, a seething snake reached one of the power lines and caused a short circuit, plunging the island into darkness.

The Villar Group’s Prime Asset Ventures Inc. owns S.I. Power Corp. (Sipcor), which is the sole power supplier for the Province of Siquijor Electric Cooperative Inc. (Prosielco).

Prosielco, as quoted by a Philippine News Agency report last year, said it is only dependent on the power supplied by the Villar-led company. In a document submitted to the DOE, it also noted an abrupt change in power consumption in the island from 2015 to 2019 due to the influx of tourists.

Siquijor, no doubt, is a magical place. Its magic lies in its crisp air, untouched mountains, its healing plants and its people who are kind and warm. And with its sights and sounds, its mystery and mystique, there is something for everyone.

Unfortunately, if the precarious power situation isn’t addressed, Siquijor will remain shrouded not just in black magic, but in blackouts, too

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Email: [email protected]. Follow her on X @eyesgonzales. Column archives at EyesWideOpen (Iris Gonzales) on Facebook.