Adobo meets al dente at Moderna
Yes, Moderna by Chef Donatello Montrone is an Italian-Filipino restaurant. He says, “Moderna is my interpretation of Italian cuisine. One that has been shaped by my roots and refined through 10 years in Filipino gastronomy. It is where the grounding experience of a traditional Piedmontese steakhouse, military discipline, and Italian agricultural heritage meet a decade of food and life in the Philippines.”
He tries to use only Filipino and Italian ingredients as much as he can.
The Italian chef grew up around Aglianico vineyards and was raised by a family of farmers and winemakers. He knows the food of Southern Italy, understanding the land and its seasonality. He spent his formative years in Turin and learned the fundamentals of meat, fire, repetition, and respect for ingredients in his uncle’s traditional Piedmontese steakhouse. He founded Al Dente Food Group and opened his first restaurant, Al Dente Fresh Pasta Bar in Forbestown, BGC. The restaurant built a following with his fresh pasta, fine ingredients, and above all, consistency.
Donatello adds, “At its core, my food is Italian – guided by technique, structure, and clarity, yet introduced to Filipino ingredients, climate, and sensibility. There is no dilution of identity, only its marriage. Moderna is not fusion in the conventional sense. It is the result of lived experience. It is Italian soul and Filipino warmth.”
I tried the set menu as the a la carte was not ready since they just opened. I got excited even before the meal when I was presented with the most authentic taralli that I have tried in the Philippines! That is my favorite biscuit from Southern Italy and I’m happy that Donatello makes them (very well)!
The Lucanian sausage empanada served before the meal was a promising sign for a good dinner as I took the delicious pie in two bites! I also enjoyed the Wagyu crocchette (croquette) as well as the cured meats (the guanciale or pork jowl was amazing) and local cheeses. Two of my favorites were the Mazara Red Shrimp Carpaccio with calamansi, shrimp head, crusco — a sweet red Italian pepper from Basilicata in Southern Italy, formerly known as Lucania (the sausage served in the empanada) and the Adobo Raviolo — single raviolo (one piece of ravioli) with mildly flavored adobo with provolone cream and topped with citrus gremolata (an Italian condiment made with parsley, garlic, and lemon). Choices of the mains included Local Wagyu Striploin with mixed roots purée and red wine sauce or the Lapu-lapu Sinigang-style broth with salsa verde. I chose the beef and was not disappointed with its soft, juicy, and flavorful meat. Unique desserts included Crusco – three desserts that had that hint of heat from the crusco pepper that included paprika namelaka (Japanese for “ultra creamy”), sili (local chili) chocolate crémeux, pistachio praline, and coconut ice cream. The meal also included little pastries such as Italian Bacio (meaning “kiss”) which was an almond-based biscuit with chocolate ganache and a Lumpia Cannolo – lumpia (spring roll) with citrus ricotta and dark chocolate.
I really enjoyed the meal but what I’m dying to try are the imaginative and unique a la carte dishes Donatello has prepared. Imagine Cacio e Peppe with coconut cream and tuyo (dried salted fish), Duck Carbonara, and Fiorentina Steak-a Chianina (the proper Italian breed of beef used for Bistecca alla Fiorentina in Italy) porterhouse with siling labuyo(local bird’s eye chili) vinaigrette, tuyo and burnt calamansi, parsley and kinchay sauce! These are dishes I am dying to try so I have a reason to return soon!
I love this concept of Filipino-Italian, two favorite cuisines that I usually crave for, and now I have a place to go for it! *
(Moderna is located at Uptown Parade, Bonifacio Global City, Taguig City and is open daily for lunch from 1130am to 3pm and for dinner from 6 to 8pm for the first seating and 8:30pm for the second seating.)
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