Tapella: A bite of modern Spain

MANILA, Philippines – Mere mention of Spanish cuisine brings to mind long-winded meals of painstakingly cooked traditional dishes with rich sauces. But at the new Spanish restaurant called Tapella in Greenbelt 5, we rediscovered the alternative pleasure of tapas, small servings of assorted comestibles that should be any grazer’s delight.

“Spanish food has changed a lot in recent years,” says Tapella’s executive chef and restaurant manager Alexandra Cacho. “Aside from creating dishes using the numerous products that are now on hand, there is a conscious effort among chefs to make the cuisine more healthful, and probably less greasy.”

The cooking philosophy that chef Xandra lives by is written in Tapella’s menu: “Start with a traditional base, pour an infusion of unique contrasting flavors and a spoonful of intense passion, a dash of talent and a sprig of innovation. Finish off with disconcerting textures and illusion.” She points out that although the classic dishes will always remain popular, diners who try out innovative cuisine are equally likely to enjoy contemporary Spanish fare. To prove her point, she guided us through a degustacion menu of the restaurant’s most popular items.

We started out with white garlic and almond soup, garnished with a grape and sprig of spring onion (P70). The item was placed under the heading “shooters” in the menu and was fittingly served in a shot glass. “This is usually served in the summertime,” explained chef Xandra and “disconcerting” is really an appropriate description for the cold soup. The grains of ground almonds contrasted with the sweetness of sliced grapes in the garlic-tinged liquid. Surprisingly however, it was pleasant and the only difficulty was that the almonds tended to settle at the bottom of the glass. One suggestion: Stir the soup before quickly tipping the glass to get most of the ground almonds into your mouth.

The tapas for sharing came in quick succession. Camembert and caramelized onions on fluted bread (P180) and cocido meat on fluted bread (P210) were already quite filling, but fortunately, we were dining as a group, allowing us to try more items in the menu. Traditional chorizo was stewed in red wine and it was immensely tempting to throw caution to the wind, eschew “healthy” and dip pieces of bread in its rich, delicious red oil. A healthier alternative was a tender and tasty octopus with paprika salt and virgin olive oil (P280) served on sliced boiled potatoes, and we enjoyed this with the firm and fresh garlic sautéed shrimp (P260).

The surprise in the tapas menu, however, was calamares con tinta romana el Bulli or calamari in black ink batter. By incorporating squid ink into a batter and then deep-frying the seafood to make crisp and unusual black rings, the diner can enjoy squid ink with a smaller risk of getting unsightly ink stains between his or her teeth. The calamares are served with an aioli dip and garnished with feathery fennel leaves. As an experiment, we crushed the fennel leaves into the aioli dip and discovered that the delicate, sweet and faint anise-like flavor enhanced the dip even more. Delicious. We were not surprised to find out that the dish is a best seller at Tapella.

But then, it was time to sample different versions of the more substantial paella, the definitive Spanish rice, vegetable, poultry, fish, sausage and shellfish dish seasoned with saffron. Although the dish is traditionally described as “rustic,” new variants have made paella hip and contemporary, too. At Tapella, one can order smaller, more manageable portions for two or three diners, so that ordering paella isn’t tantamount to feeding an entire barangay. For meat lovers, there is picadillo paella (P650) with its assortment of “little meats.” Picadillo is Spanish for hash and the correct spelling comes with an “i.” Change it to an “e” and peccadillo means “a trifling offense” in the English language — not at all an accurate meaning to associate with the picadillo paella that was delicious with a squeeze of lemon.

Greek paella (P485) was lighter, had slices of salmon and mild white cheese, and should be a more favorable alternative for those who would rather do without the meat. One would think that the saffron flavoring on the rice would overwhelm the taste of the salmon, but the smoky taste of the fish was discernible with each tasty mouthful.

The best choice for me that day was the Manchego cheese, chicken, shrimp and asparagus paella (P500). Manchego is a typical Spanish cheese made with ewe’s milk. Although this is a firm cheese, it melts nicely when heated. The golden color and full mellow flavor was lovely on rice.

The meal lasted longer than expected and it would have been physically impossible to sample more even with revitalizing draughts of sangria, so we ended the meal with a medley of desserts wherein traditional and modern were well represented: Kahlua mousse, creamy egg yolk custard, banana crepes, apple pie and tiramisu. However, the comfort food of arroz con leche, a sweet creamy rice and milk pudding with a sprinkling of cinnamon, was a reminder of why Spain’s constantly- evolving cuisine remains a time-honored favorite. Modern Spanish cuisine is a flawless melding of old and new.

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Check out the Friday “Wine Nights” from 6-9 p.m. with overflowing wine and tapas for P600. Tapella is at the ground floor, Greenbelt 5, Ayala Center, Makati City or call 757-2710 to 11, visit www.tapella-restaurant.com, or e-mail inquiry@tapella-restaurant.com.