But, she will never have a pink rag. She reveres pink. Pink is special for her. It’s the color reserved for her mom. Whenever she misses her (God bless her soul), or when she feels low or sick and even on special happy family occasions, she puts on her mom’s favorite long pink flannel nightgown and claims instant relief. I, however, dislike it so much. It’s so unromantic, like sleeping with my grandma in a pink sack, I eternally complain. It covers her neck down to her ankles. It’s so old but not yet tattered though, but no longer a rosy pink as it has seen better nights. But she would never ever trade it, not even for a pair of red silk Victoria’s Secret.
Last week, a good friend highly suggested we try Red, Makati Shangri-La’s newest outlet.
Mary Ann goes, "Shangri-La has a restaurant, named after a primary color?
"Yes, it used to be the Cheval Blanc" I replied.
"They must really like colors," she said. "But what a contrast! Cheval Blanc was so French, so intimidating, so formal and so expensive sounding. While red sounds so simple and casual, rebellious and passionate, relaxed but spirited. Are they now after a much younger crowd, as in three-year-olds?"
True enough, when we went there for lunch sometime last week, we noticed right away the great transformation. The interior is bright, with minimalist red paintings. The Makati Shangri-La management wanted to shed off its formal stiff image, and succeeded quite so. The curtains were removed to let in natural light in the old Cheval Blanc, where the heavy curtains were always drawn (even during daytime) that made the room forever dark.
Red is light and bright. And to add understated elegance, artist Bobby Castillo was commissioned to do the glass podium by the entrance and all the glass dishes and napkin holders that look like trophies. And for that needed opulent touch, they have super comfortable red velvet club chairs to slouch on (and perhaps snooze after all that red meat and red wine). And the tables are set far apart, giving little room for eavesdropping but ample room for the legs.
They have a modern approach to meet the demands of the time. Unlike Cheval Blanc, which was for special occasion dining, Red wants to see their customers come more often and regularly in a more casual and jovial mood setting.
Upon the waiter’s recommendation, I tried their best selling soup, clam chowder, which was rich and creamy, much better than the clam chowder I’ve tried where it was invented, Boston, which I find too starchy and heavy. Mary Ann, on the other hand, had a lobster bisque, which she peppered with hot drops of red Tabasco. We shared a crisp oyster salad, which had a three-kind mustard aioli and sprinkled with chorizo bits. The texture of the crisp lightly battered oysters was a nice contrast to the mixed greens (not just the regular mesclun, but it had arugula and pea sprouts as well) and soft plum tomatoes. Not content with one starter (parang diesel itong si misis, mabagal sa umpisa, pero humihirit din pag long haul) Mary Ann also ordered Crab Two-Ways, a duo of fried soft-shell crab and a crab cake on a bed of lettuce and vinaigrette.
Normally, Mary Ann avoids ordering crustaceans in restaurants because she claims they are more often than not either overcooked for her taste when steamed or too heavy with sauce when cooked otherwise. But since Red has a very short menu, it gives the diner the impression that all dishes are special and mastered by the chef. She dared to order the Red Shellfish Bowl, which came out to be a large platter of half a lobster, two tiger prawns, and a tranche each of sea bass and salmon. The seafood medley came on a pool of bouillabaisse, apportioned just right, wading in it, not drowning. Mary Ann had a feast, and while I’m allergic to crustaceans, that didn’t stop me from crossing over her dish for the sea bass (my fave) and the salmon. Admittedly, I spooned a little of the bouillabaisse. It was so good, I could only wish the dish had more of it.
I, on the other hand, had the specialty of the house, a 12-oz. US chilled New York strip. It was so juicy and tender and had the full flavor body that can only come with freshness and proper aging.
Now, here’s another interesting Red bit. The prices are quite reasonable. The Crab Two Ways costs P325. It is one dish for light eaters. But, not for my wife, who can really eat like me – and that’s an understatement. Other appetizers and soups start at P250 to 420. The Shellfish Bowl at P710, a hefty 24-oz porterhouse at P850, herb roasted rack of lamb also at P850, while the prize catch, the 12-oz. New York Strip costs P1,800.
The desserts were also red. No, no red Lifesavers candies, but not a bad idea to have after the coffee, where the memories of a good meal will linger. We had the Red Bento Box sampler that could satisfy any sweet-toothed person and the homemade olive oil sorbet.
The menu was a whole changeover from the old Cheval Blanc. We were fortunate to meet American chef Christopher Romine and PR manager Joyce Wassmer, who must have mistaken us for spies as I went around taking photos of their function room and dishes as they were served on our table.
Why Red, we asked the two authorities? And Mary Ann was right about its mission of a younger and bolder new image. Now, this is the interesting bit. It’s called Red also because the dishes are mostly red, and so with the decor. Red meat, red catch for lobsters and prawns, red sorbet and berry sauce. Though if I may suggest, a welcome drink of chilled watermelon juice or strawberry shake will be a nice red touch, especially now that they are sweet and very much in season.
Chef Christopher was fortunately done with his chores and joined us as he talked about how he became a chef. Mary Ann teased him that most chefs she meets are European and mentioned she is more at ease listening and understanding his American accent. That’s another Red for you, he doesn’t feel at all slighted when a diner asks for Tabasco or steak sauce as each diner has different preference.
Chef Christopher’s has a knack for putting a twist to what may be regarded as standard food. The chef claims, only in Red can one find chilled meat flown in fresh from New York (most of the imported meats are shipped, which can take weeks to arrive.) Chilled meats, unlike the frozen ones, travel in refrigerated containers, being aged in the process and thus maintaining their natural flavor and juices when they land.
Five-star hotel service is always impeccable as expected since they charge an arm and a leg. In Red, you get first-class ambiance, first- class service at the price of other non-hotel fine dining establishments. Now, that’s real value for money.
Make it a red-letter day at Red.