You don’t have to look far to get the coolest looks for the hottest season — summer! A plethora of ethnic prints adorned the spring/summer international runways. A diverse selection decorated the runways, some of which hit close to home. Southeast Asian textiles usually seen in traditional costume were revamped to create the latest looks of the season. The collections of Dries Van Noten, Givenchy, Gucci, Marc Jacobs, and Diane Von Furstenberg, to name a few, led the pack.
“Throughout Asia, textiles are one of the most powerful and exciting art forms, and in Southeast Asia, in particular, the spiritual and ritual importance that textiles play in ceremonies of state and religion is reflected in their great mystery and splendor,” goes an excerpt from Textiles of Southeast Asia by Robyn Maxwell. “Southeast Asia textiles are outstanding works of art, formed by a rich variety of techniques. The finest examples, often of elaborate and complex design, display superb levels of technical skill in weaving, dyeing, embroidery and appliqué. A diversity of materials includes bark, plant fibers, cotton, silk, beads, shells, gold and silver, and among a profusion of patterns and motifs we find human figures, abstract
Here, in the Philippines, different versions of intricate textiles provide distinctions in our various regions. Perhaps the most well known of all hand-loomed fabrics is jusi. This usually embroidered woven fabric is the choice for the barong Tagalog, the men’s national costume.
An alternative to jusi, piña is the finest of all hand-woven fabrics. Aklan is the main source of the wild pineapple fiber used to create this. Now silk is added to the weave as an innovation to make a more practical and resilient fabric.
Ikat, another ancient weave from Mindanao, is a labor-intensive fabric created by resist-dyeing the threads before weaving it by hand on a very narrow loom. Particular to the Yakan women of Basilan is their malong with a diamond pattern. Then, there’s t’nalak, the T’boli tribe’s bark cloth, Southern Mindanao’s batik and the plaid-patterned patadyong from Antique.
You need not look far to stay au courant. Mod versions of our particular textiles are so hot this summer. I am partial, though, to the Mountain Province’s almost diminishing art. The Igorot’s loincloth or bahag for men and the tapis for women — typically in vivid colors and geometric designs — have now evolved to table runners or fashion accessories. Perhaps because I spent many summers in Baguio, where I was born, I was exposed to authentic Cordillera adornments with graphic beadwork designs and vibrant colors of woven textiles decorated with metal, shells, bones and ivory at such an early age. The richness and diversity of these authentic adornments and jewelry demonstrate an intense level of visual refinement already prevalent during their time.
Even then, the Filipino had a high aesthetic sophistication. It was creativity in its highest and purest form. Moreover, ornaments were not only beautiful but also functional. Unusual designs, color combinations and material mixes made them distinctly Filipino. Then, they not only focused on design but also on the quality. Durability was also highly prized. In addition, ornamentation was an indication of one’s status and prestige in the community — the bigger and extra-elaborate the ornament, the higher the status.
For me, though, it is more about the beauty of decadence — how they masterfully layer their accessories. I am not alone in this love affair. I share this fervor with the authority, Roberto Madamba, a collector of Cordillera ornaments and writer of Form and Splendor, a book focusing on the personal adornment and jewelry of the main Cordillera ethnic groups. “History notes that the Cordillera’s personal adornments are the original expression of pre-Hispanic Filipino culture,” Madamba writes in Form and Splendor.
• Remember, prints are very tricky. Go with mod designs to make your look current. A customary design is dated.
• The fastest way to get the look is to get a traditional fabric and ask your favorite designer to customize it for you.
• The season’s pièce de résistance is a well-made mini-dress. The tailored lines will definitely highlight the print.
• Don’t distract from the look with too many extras. Polish the look with monochromatic makeup and sleek hair. Don’t be heavy-handed.
• Cinch a tribal-print dress with a mod belt to create the latest vibe.
• Woven accessories or those embellished with tassels complete the look.
• Alternatively, update your look with new, vintage or reworked tribal accessories from bejeweled metal and wood cuffs to show-stopping neck pieces and chandelier earrings.
• Last but definitely not least, carry your ethnicity with confidence.
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Next week, experience a coup d’état with the season’s mighty military garb. Send queries and suggestions to jo@ joyceorena.com.