Designer scents are dead to me. I gave up on them years ago after the nth run-in with the nth fresh-fruity-floral fragrance so prevalent on cosmetics floors these days.
Perhaps I am being a bit rash. There are a number of designers doing interesting things that I will always seek out: Thierry Mugler comes to mind, as well as Rei Kawakubo, Tom Ford, Marc Jacobs, and Narciso Rodriguez. But usually, whenever I encounter a new perfume on a magazine scent strip, or a blotter a sales person hands me as I exit a department store, it just confirms how every scent smells the same nowadays. They are all fresh, fruity, floral, or a generic combination of the three. They smell like nothing in nature. They tend to turn perfumey after an hour or so, which is when I run to the bathroom to scrub them off. Like a blockbuster summer movie, they’re built to sell lots in a short amount of time, but they’re not built to last.
This is why for the true perfume lover, the final frontier lies in niche or boutique fragrances. In this realm, the only limit is the perfumer’s imagination. They can take your breath away with new olfactory experiences: the sacred smell of incense, the resinous depths of woods, the down-and-dirty reek of musks. While some of their elixirs do smell fresh, or fruity, or floral, these are not lab-created flowers and fruits, but natural essences that sweep you away to the places from whence they came: the fig trees of Provence, the bigarade oranges of Italy, the sandalwood trees of Mysore, India.
One of the most revered creators of niche fragrances today is L’Artisan Parfumeur (The Artisan Perfumer), headed by veteran nose Jean Laporte. Inspired by the artisan perfumers of the past who would create very personal fragrances for the aristocracy, Laporte’s Paris boutique is an olfactory wonderland of sachets, coffrets and scented objects for the home. But the real nectar that draws its rabid following in is L’Artisan’s eau de toilettes. (The fact that Laporte insists on a light EDT formulation more suited to hot weather already sets him apart from the crowd.)
One of L’Artisan’s pioneering efforts was a scent meant to conjure up the delight of gathering wild blackberries. Instead, someone misread the formula and added an overdose of musk, which resulted in the cult classic Mure et Musc, a unisex scent that can summon up either an innocent romp in the brambles or a sexy romp in the stables.
L’Artisan was the first to use coffee notes in L’Eau du Navigateur, to introduce a fig accord in Premier Figuier, and to make an animalic composition like Dzing! smell as fun as a day at the circus.
In the Philippines, where Rustan’s recently launched the line, we’re catching up to L’Artisan rather late in its story. Dozens of brilliant scents have already been introduced — 36 already line Rustan’s shelves, in fact — but for fragrance fanatics, it’s never too late to join Laporte and inhale his Scheherazade-like tale.
“He discovered Himalayan Nard 3,000 meters up in the mountains of the Himalayas,” cites L’Artisan brand manager Jeff Santos as one example. “Laporte also found the nard had anti-aging properties.”
Applied for centuries in Indian Ayurvedic medicine, this flower, whose Sanskrit name is Jatamansi, is known for a balmy, musky perfume that promotes spiritual and emotional well being. More recently, its essential oil was found to encourage skin renewal, anti-aging and repair. With a plant this blessed, Laporte decided to launch not only a new fragrance but also L’Artisan’s first body-care line, Jatamansi.
In another first, Jatamansi is the world’s first organic, Ecocert-ified fragrance. The body-care line, consisting of a Bath Lotion and Body Crème, is also organic, with added ingredients like pink grapefruit water and rosehip, jojoba and apricot kernel oils to invoke a sensual, luxurious bathing experience.
“L’Artisan is for those who don’t want to smell like everyone else,” declares Santos. In an attempt to aid his and Rustan’s tireless efforts to introduce the brand to a wider audience, here’s a quick guide to help you find your signature scent among L’Artisan’s prodigious offerings:
For Floralistas
La Chasse Aux Papillons: A runaway best seller, Chasing Butterflies is a euphoric medley of spring flowers like jasmine and tuberose. Ethereal yet drop-dead gorgeous, fans include Kate Bosworth and Sigourney Weaver.
Mimosa Pour Moi: My Own Mimosa is a sunny, creamy floral that exudes femininity. Nicole Kidman loves its delicate sweetness, which makes it perfect for hot weather.
Oeillet Sauvage: Wild Carnation is part flower, part spice, part very nice powdery overtones. Sample and snag any remaining bottles, because I hear this has been discontinued.
For Fresh/Fruit Fanciers
Jatamansi: Starts off citrusy, with faint hints of wood and spice. By the time it dries down to a baby-soft powder, you are calm and impervious to stress. They should dose Britney Spears with an IV bottle of this.
Mure et Musc: A sexy blend of blackberries and musk, this is L’Artisan’s top seller worldwide. Celebrity fans include Cate Blanchett, Heather Graham, Julianna Margulies, Jenna Elfman and Toni Braxton.
Mandarine Tout Simplement: This is the purest, most juicy mandarin you’ll ever smell. Close your eyes and you’re in the Mediterranean, surrounded by gently swaying orange trees. The bottle with its old-fashioned bulb atomizer is beautiful and collectible as well.
Ananas Fizz: Pineapple Fizz is a sparkling, effervescent cocktail stirred with rum and cocoa milk. Before you can say piña colada, your spirits have lifted.
Premier Figuier: Deservedly named “premier”because it was the very first fragrance with a fig theme. Conjuring up the entire fig tree with its fruity, earthy and green elements, it is the choice juice of bombshell Halle Berry.
L’Eau de L’Artisan: L’Artisan’s signature scent battles rainy-day blues with bright citruses, cool herbs and the freshness of newly cut grass. Courteney Cox adores this paean to summer.
For Spice Girls & Boys
Dzongkha: Inspired by a nose’s travels in Bhutan, Jennifer Aniston is a fan of this exotic omni-scent mixing lychee, cardamom, peony, iris, tea leaves and incense.
Ambre Extreme: Model Lily Cole wears this burnt-golden potion of amber, musk and vanilla that smells seductive on both men and women.
Mechant Loup: A cult hit that became another L’Artisan classic, “Big Bad Wolf” is a rather wicked composition of woods and honey spiced with pepper and star anise. Meant to be worn by predators of both sexes, like Penelope Cruz, who in matters of the heart is definitely no Little Red Riding Hood.
Passage d’Enfer: This otherworldly blend of flowers, aloe and incense evokes temple walls, vaulted church ceilings and flickering candles. Elle Macpherson is a fan of this holy scent.
For Gourmands
Vanilia: A magnificent take on vanilla. This is no simple cupcake or ice-cream vanilla but the pure bean laced with a touch of amber for a sophisticated, grown-up aura. It has already seduced legions of celebs like Michelle Pfeiffer, Andie MacDowell, Claudia Schiffer, Daryl Hannah, and Cher.
Tea for Two: Like sipping a cup of chai tea in front of a roaring fire, this is a sweet, spicy, milky drink — pure comfort.
Piment Brulant: The aphrodisiac qualities of chocolate spiked with red chili pepper are legend. Hot Pimento’s notes are exactly that — the result is a surprisingly fresh and subtle love potion.
Bois Farine: If you loved Farina when you were a kid, you’ll instantly relate to Bois Farine (Wood Flour), based on the rare Farine flower from Reunion. Smells exactly like hot cereal with a dollop of milk.
Jour de Fete: This translates to “Day of Celebration” and smells like those pastel-colored candied almonds — absolutely innocent, joyous, yummy fun.
Thé Pour Un Ete: Named Tea for Summer, this lively fragrance is like sipping a large glass of iced tea with a mint leaf on top. Originally a limited edition, it provoked such an enthusiastic response from fans like Catherine Deneuve that it’s now available all year round.
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L’Artisan Parfumeur is available at Rustan’s Makati, Shangri-La Tower, and Ayala Alabang.