I was bathed by the luminous glow of gentle moonbeams. I rose from a 1950’s four-poster bed and pushed aside white diaphanous curtains suspended from a carved wooden canopy billowing in the magical night air. My bare feet glided on cool narra-planked floors. As I opened a sturdy window inlaid with an intricate mosaic of beige and silvery shells, I was mesmerized by the sight right outside my bedroom.
The soft South China Sea breeze hovering over the seaside Village Resort of Sitio Remedios in Currimao, Ilocos Norte invited me to a magical evening, awaking all my senses. A grand cluster of seven vintage homes stood proudly side by side, peering into a central courtyard of cobble-stoned tropical gardens. On this momentous occasion, the entire enclave was dramatically illuminated by 700 flickering candles. My family and loved ones were all here. A banquet table was all set for our party of 30. Pretty white hand-crocheted tablecloths, gleaming white china and quaint candelabras dolled up the long table with floral centerpieces that perfumed the air. To the right was a spotlighted Capilla San Miguel, its magnificent buttresses draped by the shadows of towering centuries-old tamarind trees. I heard the water fountains flowing, and our children’s laughter, as their lively footsteps echoed on the ancient bridgeway steps above the lily ponds. Their vain attempt to seduce sleepy fishes from hiding underneath the exotic leaves of the local Azucao lotus plants attracted some frolicking fireflies instead.
“Dinner is served!” announced Dr. Joven Cuanang as he waved to me from his garden. Smiling, I went to meet our gracious and genteel host. As we sat at a table in the courtyard, I couldn’t help but marvel at this theatrical setting.
“What is your inspiration for all this?” I asked him.
“My childhood,” he said warmly. “I used to live in a house just like that,” he added, pointing to one with a balcony on the second floor, his face all aglow with nostalgic memories. “That’s where I was assigned by my parents to do the cleaning.” His parents died when he was very young.
“My mother was a great influence on me. I have dedicated this special place to her. Hence, the name Sitio Remedios. She was an exceptional woman, a school teacher who inculcated in me the value of education.”
Dr. Cuanang, a neurologist and medical director at St. Luke’s Medical Center, went to Harvard Medical School in the ’60s on a China Medical Board Rockefeller Scholarship.
“I was saddened upon my return to find our old home demolished, along with it my precious childhood memories. I vowed that one day, God willing, I would rebuild.”
Dr. Cuanang said he couldn’t forget Dec. 31, 2005. It all transpired during his birthday celebration, a momentous night that found his ideas spontaneously flowing. The very next day, architect Rex Hofilena presented some splendid sketches capturing all his fantasies on paper. That was when he knew it was the right time. It was no simple task, but armed with the fervor of one consumed by intense passion and excitement, it began. He found some Ilocano families who were ready to demolish their ancestral homes to build newer, larger, modern structures on their land. Dr. Cuanang was only too happy to purchase them. Prior to dismantling the homes, each piece was lovingly studied and numbered. Then they were transported to his beach side property in Currimao. Because of the delicate structuring, attention to detail was necessary so he hired a special team of skilled carpenters hailing from the town where the homes originated from in order for these houses to be reassembled as authentically as possible. It took six crews from each town and a total of two hundred workers to build this dream. Today (with the addition of air-conditioning), all homes — aptly named Balay Batac, Balay Dingras, Balay Radrillo, Balay Puraw, Balay Pidding, Balay Bacarra and Balay San Nicolas — are again ready to be lived in.
When the homes were done, Dr. Cuanang furnished them with his prized collection of family heirloom, antique furniture, locally woven white cotton linens and countless delightful paintings from his famous Pinto Art Gallery. He pointed out the wedding portrait of his parents Mariano and Remedios Cuanang created by National Artist Bencab. I spotted on the wall a very unique floral art piece painstakingly made by his grandmother. I was also proud to see my talented cousin Claude Tayag’s paintings all over the two bedrooms in Balay Dingras.
The result is that of a mini but grandiose version of a quaint Ilocos community circa 1950’s. “What I have recreated is the way we used to live back then. Through Sitio Remedios I have preserved my heritage for all the world to see. I am so proud to be Filipino and proud to be an Ilocano.”
A female server came to our table garbed in the old maiden Ilocano attire. Dr. Cuanang was prompted to say: “Girls used to dress this way. We used to dine this way. The center of our community and social life was the church and town plaza. This is where we used to hang out in the good old days, just like what we are doing right now.”
He added: “It amazes me that everyone who comes here ends up talking about their childhood.” After dinner, Dr. Cuanang playfully led us all to the beach and challenged us to exhilarating childhood games of moonlight patintero and beach volleyball. His nephew Ray Boy Barona, a former soccer coach for the Ateneo women’s team, set up a soccer game for us: kids versus adults. The kids mercilessly beat us adults, 4 to1. Nonetheless, it was a great workout for all.
Our Sunday recollection was held in the quaint little chapel (which looks like a baby Paoay Church). We were serenaded by the angelic voices of the Sitio Remedios Children’s Choir whose members were clad in crisp red and white choir uniforms.
It was my sister Christine’s birthday and Dr. Cuanang very thoughtfully prepared a little family ceremony to honor her. After praying for all our intentions, we were reminded to continue loving one another. The choir sang Ilocano love songs while amiable Rene Guatlo and the gentle Sitio staff distributed little baskets of fresh garden blooms. My eldest sibling was handed a garland of pink cadena de amor to crown our birthday sister with. Each member was tasked to approach the birthday celebrant, who was made to sit on a carved wooden Bishop’s chair by the altar, to deliver a fervent wish and a kiss. A family hug ensued amidst a colorful flower shower. Touched to the core, we all shed tears of joy. Dr. Cuanang fondly shared, “This is how we used to celebrate family, Ilocano style.”
Our enjoyable three-day stay came to an end. It was time to say goodbye to those comfortable vintage villas, delicious Ilocano homestyle meals, gorgeous sunset cocktails, delectable sunrise longaniza breakfasts at Café Abrao, soothing hilot massages at the Ablon Spa, luscious night caps of hot native chocolate, fresh miki soup and biscocho under the trees on Plaza de San Miguel, al fresco candlelight dinners under the stars on Plaza de Manzanilla.
Amidst flying kisses, I snapped a last photo of Dr. Cuanang in his eminent domain as he graciously saw us off with his signature yellow Manzanillas. Sitio Remedios to me is more than just a lovely seaside resort. It is a dream haven where generations of families can celebrate and enjoy the simple yet abundant pleasures of a glorious bygone era.
(Would love to hear from you. E-mail me at miladayjewels@yahoo.com)