Bluewater's finale

CEBU, Philippines - And what a fitting finale it was last Friday, when we met Chef Sau del Rosario of Villa Café for his Pampanga cuisine-based dishes…buffet style. French-trained Chef Sau has brought Pampanga cuisine to world class levels!

Having tried and developed a liking for Pampanga cuisine – the oldest distinctive Filipino haute cuisine, I believe – I really looked forward to Chef del Rosario offerings. First off, I had a serving of the pako or fresh fern salad. This is a rare delicacy, as we don't have edible forest ferns, for obvious reasons. The salad was refreshing! So was the ceviche with pomelo…interesting pairing! (I was told that the maya-maya mayonesa was just exquisite…I missed this! So with the prawn salad with watermelon…I prioritized the rare dishes.)

The escargot with lemongrass in a puff pastry was delicious but I just took a bite, as it was chili spicy. The camaru (dried locust) in a vegetable spring roll, on the other hand,   was soft and it wonderfully blended with the veggies. Then, I had a great time putting my buro (fermented rice) together with the flaky crispness of the catfish - another rare delicacy, as we don't have ricefields where this specie thrives - on a green leaf and wrapped it like lumpia. This is the best way to enjoy buro…although I have to admit that it is an acquired taste.

Chef Sau's take on the Italian staple - pizza - is creating toppings of longganisa, kesong puti, and salted duck's egg. Now, that is what I call owning the pizza as a Filipino staple! Molta bella!

On to the carving station of a lechon de leche stuffed with bringhe. His is another version of this local paella. I like it because the mild taste did not overpower the distinct flavor of the roasted pig. In fact, the bringhe gave the lechon a unique aroma. Bravo, Chef Sau!

One French version that was memorable was the seared pork sisig (minced pig's face) with foie gras and organic egg - simply out of this world! My tongue still remembers this combination. Unfortunately, I had to skip the pancit luglug though it looked appetizing.

Main courses included: lamb chops kaldereta style, local vegetables ratatouille, U.S. ox tongue in cream of mushrooms, lapulapu steamed with corn in ginger soya- sesame sauce, US sirloin bistek with shiitake mushroom confits - this is a must-try as the imported meat melts in your mouth!, and crispy pata kare-kare with steamed local veggies - another lovely tweaked creation of Chef Sau that is truly savory. And, oh, the aligue fried rice was a mortal sin for the body but heaven on the tongue…yummy!

Culminating desserts included the famous tibok tibok. I tried this confection in Pampanga where it was made with fresh carabao's milk (milked that day!), making this maja mais version so light that it jiggles when touched - like human heartbeat, hence the name. There were also some Betis San Nicolas -- traditional cookies from Spanish times with a recipe that is handed down among respected Pampangueno families.

As we bade goodbye, we were handed a native package containing a small crockery filled with Chef Sau's chicken galantina roulade which I shared with my family. It is a heritage recipe of black/green olives, slices of Spanish sausage, and green peas rolled with the chicken meat, reminiscent of childhood days at Christmas dinner. Salamat for this added treat!

To the Bluewater Maribago Beach Resort management, headed by Chef Julie Alegrado-Vergara and dynamic husband Vic, my congratulations for a successful venture into Northern Exposure. You have brought to Cebu Luzon's best culinary masters and enabled local discriminating diners a taste of the good life at your truly Filipino resort. (FREEMAN)