Getting cozy with Malaysian cuisine

CEBU, Philippines - 2010 got me exposed to Malaysian dishes as I was in Singapore three times, and in Kuala Lumpur in July. Last January 18, 2011, I was back to Malaysia in a media trip sponsored by SilkAir - thanks to Ajish Morris! - and Nazar Travel. This time, we spent some days in Penang - a charming resort city.

Upon our arrival on the first night, we had a late dinner of Biryani rice, roti with three dips (chili, curry and coconut milk), some Chinese noodles and chicken. These were accompanied by the signature drink: Teh Tarik, hand-pulled milk tea. You will notice that Malaysian cuisine, like that of its next-door neighbor Singapore, is a blend of Indian, Chinese and Malay ways of cooking, representing the three main cultural influences of these places.

As Malays, we have similar dishes, like grilled meats (barbeque style) and seafood wrapped in banana leaves; and their version of our "puso" (shaped by calico cloth or banana leaves). They even have Sup Hameed or what we know as Soup No. 5, an aphrodisiac. One thing different is the addition of chili, making most dishes spicy hot.

The Chinese migrants have integrated well with the Malays. They are known as Peranakans – intermarried with Malays and had established themselves in the new milieu, as respectable and well educated. The males are addressed as "babas" and the women as "nyonyas." Peranakan cuisine is basically Chinese with a Malay twist, especially as it is usually spicy hot.

Desserts are also familiar as their ice kachang (spelled kacang in Malaysia) is almost like our "halo-halo" and their lepat pisang (steamed banana cakes) is similar to our budbud kamoteng kahoy.

Yes, I have gotten cozy with what I initially considered exotic dishes; after all, spicy hot food can become an acquired taste over time.

Soto Ayam Bersantan (Rich Chicken Soup)

Ingredients:

3 tbsp oil

3 stalkslemon grass, bruised

5 kaffir lime leaves

2 salam leaves (or bay leaves as substitute)

2 cm galangal (Malay herb resembling ginger), bruised

1 chicken, cut into two to four pieces

1 liter thin coconut milk

Salt

Oil for deep frying

250 ccthick coconut milk

Spices (ground):

3 tbsp coriander, roasted

1 tsp cumin, roasted

1 tsp peppercorns

3 garlic cloves

7 shallots

1 tsp chopped ginger

1 tsp chopped turmeric

Salt

Garnishing:

350 g boiled potatoes, sliced

250 g tomatoes, finely sliced

5 hard-boiled eggs, quartered

100 g nut crackers

2-3 tbsp fried shallots

10 red chilies, ground for sambal

Finely sliced lime and sweet soy sauce

Method:

Heat oil and sauté ground spices, lemon grass, kaffir lime and salam leaves and galangal until fragrant. Add chicken. Stir, and then pour in thin coconut milk. Allow to simmer until the chicken is tender. Remove the chicken, rub with salt, and deep-fry until golden brown. Remove from oil and drain. Shred the chicken meat finely, and then set aside. Pour thick coconut milk into gravy, and bring to a boil.

How to serve: Arrange chicken, potatoes, tomatoes, egg quarters and nut crackers in a bowl and pour the hot gravy over. Sprinkle with fried shallots, and then add sambal, sliced lime and sweet soy sauce. Serve with rice or ketupat (compressed rice cakes).