CEBU, Philippines - At the One Cebu launch first weekend of August, Cebu’s pride Philip Rodriguez and Jun Escario wowed the very select audience gathered at the Plenary Hall of the Cebu International Convention Center. These two designers are among those designers—there have been a few this season—who make you think, all over again, of the huge void left by Yves Saint Laurent. Their synthesis of hyper couture and styling galore is fully in the YSL tradition (and both admittedly pointed out having the maestro as their constant source of inspiration). Both are of the very few who are carrying it through with a genuine sense of purpose, rather than quoting from the 80s or 90s because it seems trendy right now.
”Chic, but tough. Something between elegance and hard-core cutting edge glamour. There’s too much nostalgia in fashion now.” With these words, both featured designers joined the season’s rising debate around the need for contemporary modernism.
Still, you can’t emulate Laurent without first knowing how to cut a sharp black jacket, the heavily embellished dresses, and a great pair of pants. Esacrio had all that and, after editing his collection, came up with the heavily embellished dresses. The new aspect for him was the introduction of sport elements: stretch jersey, warrior women inspired beading, and performance mesh worked into tailored ankle length shifts.
Rodriguez, on the other hand, shifted his liking for frilly satin dresses into voluminous techno-tissue pink and nude gowns. With the addition of his dapper menswear—this highly anticipated collection represents a blip of hope for the lost legions who are still wearing out the last dependable threads of their vintage Lang. And Rodriguez’ version of the red dress speaks volume of what haute couture is all about.
Next week, these two designers will be featured again as they joined the umbrella charitable group Clothes for Life in One Cebu Gala - Moda Cebuana spearheaded by its president Cary Santiago. Bravissimo! ?? (THE FREEMAN)