Photos by Rey Sta. Ana
CEBU, Philippines - In this mellower phase of my life, I look to the skies and clouds, trees and flowers, and I am pleased and content with what I find. And I have become more aware of the birds. The uninitiated may proclaim that there are none of these winged creatures to be found anymore, especially in the hard, grey concrete jungle that continues to grow. But they are here. Trust me.
My aunt, Ethel Garcia, who lives in Greenhills—in what is probably the very first condominium ever built in the country—showed me the birds that crowd the window sill of her ground-floor unit when she offered them palay. When I visited the artist Impy Pilapil, who lives in a gated Makati village, she likewise attracted feathery friends with sacks of rice and bird feed.
In my high-rise condominium, I often see birds on the ledge outside my home office window, even though I don’t do anything special like scatter palay or rice. They just drop by and then quickly fly away.
My sister Honey Jarque Loop in uptown Cebu maintains fruit trees in her garden, and I saw how these are very popular with songbirds. In exchange for food, they would gather among the branches and perform symphonies throughout the day.
The Ibon-Ebon Festival was my introduction to birdwatching, the very enjoyable recreational activity, which traces its roots to 18th-century Europe and has been practiced commercially in the Philippines since the ‘80s. When we were taken to Candaba Swamp for a bit of birdwatching, the more experienced birders were immediately able to spot these birds. But, even with their patient guidance—as when they would point to what branch in which tree a certain Perigrine Falcon or Northern Pintail would be located—I simply could not catch these beautiful animals in my viewfinder.
Only later did I find out that these crafty creatures were doing their utter best to blend with their surroundings. As they say, it is the survival of the fittest—which was just too bad for my first birding exposure. I looked over to my expert companions, all of whom were just over the moon upon spying one kind of bird after another. They would hurriedly write down more notes in their journals and then continue to take more photos. Meanwhile, I kept on looking.
In addition to being the center of heritage and culture, cuisine and shopping, snorkeling and diving, the Philippines prides itself as a great destination for nature and adventure. Birdwatching adds another avenue for exploring the islands. And why shouldn’t it be, when, upon my research, I found out that our country is a year-round birding destination with a very large and very diverse winged population?
“There are, in fact, over 600 bird species found all over the archipelago, and almost 200 of these are endemic or found only in the Philippines,†shares Carlos Libosada, writer of Birdwatching in the Philippines. According to the Wild Bird Club of the Philippines (WBCP), the intrepid group that helps maintain the master list of birds in the country, our 7,107 islands is a hot bed of mega diversity.
Aside from the very happy, very familiar, and forever hopping mayas, there are grebes, darters, boobies, bitterns, crakes, coots, curlews, godwits, snipes, noddies, frogmouths, nightjars, needletails, treeswifts, babblers, and old world warblers zipping in and out of our tropical skies. And these are just a sampling of the swarm. This year, several newly discovered birds have been added to the ever growing list.
It’s not difficult to imagine why many people have taken a liking to birding. I like it for several reasons: It easy and inexpensive. All you need is a pair of binoculars, a field map or guide to the different species of birds, a journal to write things down, and snacks and water if you’re venturing away from the city center. Clothes in earth tones will help you blend into the environment, and making it easier to get closer to your subject, too.
You can even do it in your own backyard. But if you want richer pickings, the Philippines is blessed with many birdwatching sites. These locations are, in fact, spread across the country, from the very tip of the archipelago, in Pagudpod (Ilocos Norte) to the ends of the islands, in Pasonanca Natural Park in Zamboanga. And accessing these birds has become easier as popular tour operators now include six- to 10-day programs for you to try.
For the more serious hobbyists, try this roundup from Carlos: In Alcoy Forest in Cebu, 91 species of birds, including the highly endangered Black Shama and Cebu Flowerpecker. Hundred Islands National Park in Pangasinan lets you observe Black-naped Terns and Little Herons while astride a boat. The marshlands that make up the Bicol River Estuary in Camarines Sur feature the Purple Swamphen and Siberian Rubythroat. Down in Davao, the Philippine Eagle Center is dedicated to the propagation of the Philippine Eagle, the majestic bird that swoops through forests in search of monkeys and small deer.
If you wish to explore birdwatching further, there are many groups and resources available. The WBCP and the Gallery of Birds of the Philippines—accessed through their online album, www.facebook.com/philippinebirds—are great places to start.
In this, my smell-the-roses phase of my life, when I have become more tranquil and less impatient, the pace of birdwatching is just ideal. Today, I try to make birdwatching a part of my travel itinerary. It has become a must-do in every city I visit, every building I go to, every forest trail I take—every place! I am convinced that it is never too late to take up a new hobby, especially one that only requires you to look up.