I remember Nora

Nora Villanueva Daza. I became acquainted with her during the Great Maya Cookfest that spanned nearly two decades, from the 70s to the early 90s. This campaign discovered some of the country’s successful chefs and restaurant owners, who have been successful in their quest to follow Nora’s legacy of elevating Filipino cuisine to a higher level. Today I remember her with fond memories as one of the country’s most remarkable women.

Nora was already a celebrity then, having pioneered the promotion of Filipino cuisine and the introduction of French cookery in Manila. I remember dining often at her restaurant Au Bon Vivant on that little street in Ermita, where I got introduced to escargot and soufflés. I don’t really remember how I got formally introduced to her. She would always acknowledge diners with a gracious smile, but with the cooking competition – winners of which were featured in Culinary Exchanges in Hong Kong, Singapore, Tokyo, Bangkok and Indonesia – I had a closer look at what made this lady  one of the most fascinating figures in the Philippines.

It is refreshing to remember that she never displayed any “star complex,” which would have been justified by her accomplishments in the early stages of the birth of culinary arts in the Philippines. She was always on time for meetings and events. She traveled with the group, without asking for perks. She did not have any alalay. In some instances, she would be with one of her daughters, Nina, who is now a food magazine editor. 

I remember her elegance, especially when she would be wearing the national costume. When she entered a room, she had everyone – Filipinos and expats alike – ooh-ing and aah-ing, following her every step. I can name only two Filipino ladies with such an arresting presence, the other one not being who you, dear readers, may have in mind.

When toques and aprons were not de rigueur, Nora would don her “uniform” – a cotton outfit with puffed sleeves in different colors. She loved shoes, apparently, for she traveled lugging a few pairs.

She was curious, very much so, about food. When dining in a foreign place, Nora would discreetly look at the dishes served on the nearby tables, asking the waiters what the guests have ordered. I guess that was how she managed to incorporate various cooking elements and techniques in her recipes.     

She is a cookbook author whose first publication went to its 11th printing. She gifted me with a copy of the improved edition of her first book, “Let’s Cook with Nora” in 1980. It was my first serious cookbook, serious as it became a “bible” to me. In her dedication, she wrote “Happy Cooking,” which eventually inspired me to look at the cuisine of my native town and forebears, subsequently resulting in my first cookbook.

I will miss Nora, but her legacy will live on. I have fond memories that will always make me remember this great and genial lady. Rest in peace, dear Nora, you are home.

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