Visita iglesia on a budget

MANILA, Philippines - For Filipino Catholics, the Lenten season is a time to reflect and repent. While some spend their long weekend at the beach, devotees seek serenity by doing the Visita Iglesia to contemplate on the Passion of Christ. The Spanish term, Visita Iglesia, means “church visits.” Traditionally, devotees visit seven or 14 churches, where they pray the Stations of the Cross. This 2012, the holy week begins today, Palm Sunday and ends next Sunday, which is Easter.

If you want to mix your fascination for architecture with your faith, then fly to Iloilo in the Western Visayas Region. Iloilo is home to some of the most beautiful churches in the Philippines. When you’re in a group, it’s best to hire a vehicle that would take you to the churches in Southern Iloilo and in Iloilo City. But if you want to save on transportation costs, then go local and use public transport.

Start your day as early as six in the morning. Proceed to the Multicab Terminal near the Iloilo City Public Market, commonly called as “Super.” From the Super Terminal, take the multicab bound for San Joaquin. The multicab leaves the terminal as soon as it has about 10 passengers. The trip to San Joaquin costs P60. Pay only after you alight from the multicab unless the conductor collects the fare beforehand. The multicab would likely stop at the different towns to pick up passengers. You arrive at your destination after about an hour and a half.

The San Joaquin Church is the only church in the country that portrays militarism in its architecture.

First stop: The San Joaquin Church

Built near the coastal area of Iloilo, the San Joaquin Church whose patron saint is St. Joachim has a rich history dating back to the 1800s. The Agustinian Fray Tomas Santaren initiated its construction in 1859 and completed it after 10 years. It was a product of blood and sweat of the natives who dug coral stones from the mountains of Igbaras to use as materials for the construction.

Look closely at the imposing sculptures on the church’s façade and notice images of conquerors riding horses among coconut trees. The words “Rendicion Tetuan” are engraved at the bottom. A rectangular marble signage at the bottom right of the façade explains that the sculptures show the victory of the Spanish Cavalry against the Moroccan moors in the Battle of Tetuan in 1860.

According to the Department of Tourism, the San Joaquin Church is the only church in the country which portrays militarism in its architecture. 

However, when you enter the church, you might be disoriented with its modernized interiors painted white with granite flooring. The interiors were reconstructed after an earthquake destroyed some parts of the church in 1948.

In 1974, the National Historical Institute declared the San Joaquin Church as one of the Philippines’ National Cultural Treasures.

The Miag-ao Church’s façade with its striking Baroque features.

Second Stop: The Miag-ao Church

From San Joaquin Church, walk towards the highway and hail a ride to Miag-ao, which would take 30-45 minutes. The ride costs P15.

Miag-ao is home to the famous Sto. Tomas de Villanueva Church, recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1993. The Miag-ao Church is one of four baroque churches in the Philippines, the others being the San Agustin Church in Manila, the Nuestra Señora de la Asuncion in Ilocos Sur, and the San Agustin Church in Paoay, Ilocos Norte.

Like the San Joaquin Church, the Miag-ao Church survived battles centuries ago. According to the UNESCO World Heritage website, it was constructed from 1787-1797 under the supervision of Fray Francisco Gonzales. The church served as a fortress, and natives used the towers as lookouts against Muslim raids.

The belfries of the church look like medieval castles. One of the most striking features in the façade of the church is a sculpture of a coconut tree which St. Christopher clings to while he holds the Child Jesus on his shoulder. In the middle of the façade is a sculpture of Sto. Tomas de Villanueva surrounded by children. As a whole, the sculptures symbolize the faith of the locals who withstood challenges.

Third Stop: St. Nicholas of Tolentino Parish in Guimbal

From Miag-ao, you can easily ride a multicab going to Guimbal as this public vehicle waits for passengers just outside the church.

The ride to Guimbal costs P10 and is about a 25-minute ride. You won’t miss the yellow-colored church of St. Nicholas of Tolentino as it is situated along the highway at Gimeno St. in the municipality of Guimbal. Across the church is a plaza with a garden.

A picturesque view of the Guimbal Church.

The Guimbal Church, which features pillars and images of saints, was constructed in 1590. When you get inside the church, notice the modern interiors, with walls painted white and the altar made of marble.

In case your stomach craves for food or water, there’s a sari-sari store outside the church. It’s also where you’ll get a ride going to Tigbauan.

Fourth Stop: St. John of Sahagun in Tigbauan

From Guimbal, prepare P15 for the fare to Tigbauan, where St. John of Sahagun is. You have to walk a few meters from the point where the multicab unloads passengers.

From a distance, the façade of St. John of Sahagun may not be as interesting as the other churches. The intricate sculptures surrounding its patron saint, John of Sahagun, above the entrance to the church are not as imposing as the other churches. But unlike them, this church built in 1575 was made of sandstone. You have to enter the house of God to appreciate the church better.

You might be surprised with the interiors of the Tigbauan Church, which shows the artistry of the town. The altar features Jesus Christ, his Blessed mother Mary and the saints in a tile mosaic. The walls are also decorated with the 14 Stations of the Cross in tile mosaics. The church interior was reconstructed in 1997.

Fifth Stop: Sto. Niño de Arevalo

The Tigbauan Church features intricate mosaics (inset).

From Tigbauan, take a multicab going to Mohon Terminal and pay a fare of P19. From Mohon Terminal, walk a few steps to where the traysikads (three-wheeled pedal ride) are. The fare is P10. By the time you reach Mohon, it’s lunch time so take a break. You may opt to eat by the sea. There are numerous restaurants along Villa Beach. Popular ones are Breakthrough and Tatoy’s Manokan.

After lunch, continue your Visita Iglesia to the Sto. Niño de Arevalo Church. It is the sanctuary of the third oldest original Sto. Niño brought by the Spaniards to the Philippines. The architecture of the church is plain and simple. This is a must-visit not because of its architecture but because of the Sto. Niño enshrined inside the church.

Sixth Stop: Sta. Ana Parish in Molo

From Arevalo, ride a multicab going to the district of Molo, where the Sta. Ana Parish, commonly known as Molo Church, stands. Fare is around P7.50. The Molo Church, built in 1866, is a sight to behold with its Gothic-Renaissance inspired architecture. 

There is a shady park in front of the church where locals take refuge from the heat of the sun and where lovers spend an afternoon. Walk across the park to get a closer look at the church. The National Historical Institute marker indicates that the church served as an evacuation center during the Second World War. The Molo Church is also known as the women’s church because of the 16 images of female saints found inside the church. 

Seventh Stop: Our Lady of Candles Parish in Jaro

The interior of the Jaro Cathedral is modern, complete with LCD screens.

Continue your Visita Iglesia with your last stop in Jaro, where the famous cathedral of Our Lady of Candles is. Unlike other churches, the Jaro Cathedral’s belfry stands across the church. Local historians noted that the belfry served as a watchtower in the 17th century. The Jaro Cathedral, built in 1874, has baroque architecture. It was restored in 1956 after being destroyed by the 1948 earthquake.

Inside, this church is quite modern, with LCD screens on the pillars, showing the mass responses and the priest who officiates the mass.

This cathedral is also where the revolutionary journalist of La Solidaridad, Graciano Lopez Jaena, was baptized.

Going on a pilgrimage need not be expensive. Go on a spiritual journey this Lenten season for only P500 a day, and enrich your spirit a hundred, a thousand fold.