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Starweek Magazine

Marinating properly

IN MY BASKET - Lydia Castillo -
We thought we were saving precious time by marinating three portions of beef sirloin in three different mixes, then storing two of them in the freezer for future use. The last batch remained in cold storage for more than three days and sadly this was a mistake. When cooked it turned out to be so salty, we could hardly eat it. It seems that leaving a piece of meat for a long time in the marinade makes it absorb more of the seasoning than it should. To validate this we turned to our Larousse Gastronomique Encyclopedia and looked up ‘marinating’

Marinade is seasoned liquid, while to marinate is to submerge the piece of meat, chicken or seafood in the mixture. They are either cooked or uncooked, and of late instant, applied not only to flavor food but at times to tenderize meat as well. Actually we use more of the uncooked variant like a mixture of calamansi juice, soy sauce and ground pepper for Filipino style steak. Recently we started marinating with the prepared mixes produced by various companies like Mama Sita’s and Lee Kum Kee. They are good.

Marinating time is something we need to consider. A big piece of meat, like a leg of lamb, can be marinated and kept in the refrigerator for five to six days during the cool season. During hot days, this must not exceed 48 hours. For small cuts for broiling, grilling or frying, 30 minutes would be enough and the longest time must not be more than two hours. Cool cooked marinade before use. When meant for use as a preservative, the meat must be fully submerged. The marinated piece has to be turned over at least once. Food must be drained before cooking, with the liquid used later to deglaze or to make an accompanying sauce. The most ideal marinating containers are glass, porcelain or earthenware. But today’s food savers are usually made of plastic and resin, so we just make do with them. We have not had any adverse effects.

The word marinate comes from the Latin word Marinus (marine) referring to the sea water or brine originally used for preserving food. One of the most effective marinating agents we have inherited from our forebears is vinegar. There’s nothing like immersing pork chops in lots of crushed garlic, salt and pepper and a good vinegar.

While we were at it, we also looked up what real braising is. This is one word (from brausage) we keep encountering in various cookbooks or culinary demonstrations. We may not be aware of it, but Filipino households have been braising since time immemorial. Simply, braising is cooking in a closed vessel with very little liquid on low fire for a long time. So when we tenderize our morcon or caldereta, we are actually braising. For fish, braising is poaching the fish in an oven in a small amount of liquid flavored with herbs and spices. This type of cooking is best done in a tightly closed pot or casserole, which means the flavors from the natural juices are sealed in. The braising liquid can either be strained marinade, white wine for fish, red for meat, and fish or meat stock. Onions and tomatoes may be added as well as vegetables like carrots. It is surprising how carrots can enhance the flavor of a dish. We always add stalks of leeks and celery for fuller flavor.

It is a pleasure to hear about a lady called Viki who raises Thai herbs in her backyard. She is married to a Thai, a Minister at the Royal Thai Embassy, which recently held a Thai Food Fair at the Festival Mall in Alabang, which. Regretfully, we missed that one.

Anyway, in the past we would always have a difficult time looking for Thai products which prevented us from doing this particular cuisine in our home. Viki has galangal (ginger), kafir lime and hot basil. For inquiries, her e-mail address is [email protected].

Price Watch: Some greens are cheaper, others are still expensive. Leeks are selling at P52 a kilo, spring onions at P180 and spinach at P72. The good thing is we don’t have to buy them by the kilo (since they spoil easily), but by bunches, ranging from P11 to P16. Native garlic is at an all-time incredible high of P233 a kilo and they are so small. It would take quite a lot of patience to peel them. They are still better though than the imported variety.

Have a good Sunday, dining and bonding with family and friends.
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Email comments and questions to: [email protected]

FESTIVAL MALL

LAROUSSE GASTRONOMIQUE ENCYCLOPEDIA

LEE KUM KEE

MAMA SITA

MEAT

PRICE WATCH

ROYAL THAI EMBASSY

THAI FOOD FAIR

TIME

VIKI

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