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Starweek Magazine

Scent of jasmine

IN MY BASKET - Lydia Castillo -
That was the least expected and the most surprising scent that we experienced in a coffee farm. The blooms that emitted the fragrance were the lovely white flowers of the coffee trees, which eventually would become beans for us coffee fanatics. We were on the 2006 Figaro Coffee Farm tour which took us off the beaten path in Cavite, starting with Amadeo, through narrow roads and winding up at 500 feet above sea level.

We thought we knew a lot about our favorite beverage. We discovered we did not, like we did not realize that to grow and produce the best coffee beans is to nurture the trees from the time one gets the seedlings. It’s like taking care of a child. Like humans, the trees can be subject to stress, such as when there’s not enough rain which makes them malnourished, or when the heat is too strong. These conditions result in less fruits of lesser quality. A tree has a lifespan of 70 to 90 years. It takes 3 years for a tree to bear fruit. Harvest time is normally between October and March. Women dominate the group doing the harvest.

The brewing is another complicated process. This starts from getting the perfect bean, roasting and then grinding according to what is going to be served–such as expresso, cappuccino, latte, etc.–from powder-fine to salt-size granules. Also crucial is the timing followed to make a specific drink perfect.

We remember coffee was originally grown in Batangas, but for some reason, the province is now playing runner-up to Cavite where constant study is being coordinated with the Cavite State University on whose plots we saw the seedlings as well as the fruit-bearing trees. There are quite a few pilot farms in Cavite, but demand in the country out-paces the harvest. The varieties grown are Robusta, Excellenta, Arabica and Liberica which is the native Barako, the latter badly in need of preservation. This is where the Figaro Foundation comes in, and we can see they’re doing a good job because coffee harvest is now done year round. Farmers have resorted to inter-cropping with cash crops, meaning they plant other fruit bearing trees–bananas, papayas and pineapple–in between the coffee trees and they sell these to visitors as well as in the markets.

Figaro plans to go organic soon, in order to penetrate the international market. That requires certification from an international organization, Naturland, based in Germany. To attain that certificaton, Roland Ferstl who is connected with the German Development Service is working closely with the Figaro group.

So now, when we sip that soothing cup of coffee, we are more aware of the complicated process from bean to cup, which makes us appreciate coffee even more.

Lately we have been visiting and looking at (more like tasting) offerings of some new restaurants. We did this in the span of three weeks, getting suggestions/recommendations from friends and associates. People of Metro Manila do love to eat, and restaurant owners are certainly aware of that. Go into any dining place and chances are you’ll see a lot d people enjoying their meal. It’s a lifestyle, eating out.

Our first stop was Fish & Co. on the street level of the Shangrila Mall. Service is efficient and the dips that go with the fish (done in so many ways) are complementary rather than overwhelming. Jaymi’s is the new one in The Fort, managed by a group of young men and women who were partners in another successful chain. We love catfish (hito) and therefore relished their jumbo–more than a kilo–fried so crispy we could have finished the whole fish. You hardly find this size in the markets. They have a wide range of offerings, but try their Sinigang na Ulo. The place is airy and there’s a driving range right beside the big restaurant. Average meal costs between P200 and P300.

The same friend who brought us to Jaymi’s referred us to Korea Garden on Jupiter Street in Makati. By coincidence, the friend we were having lunch with that day had a special craving for Korean food. We met Liza the owner who offered a starter that had all of us ooh-ing and ah-ing as we took each deliciously flavored bite from her multi-sectioned lacquer tray. She calls this dish Kujoerban, her version of the Vietnamese lumpia. On the tray are bits and pieces of shrimps, beef, mushrooms, carrots, cucumber, bean sprouts which are combined into a roll. Each ingredient is seasoned so there’s no need for any sauce, although it is available.

Eat well, dear readers.
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Email comments and questions to: [email protected]

ARABICA AND LIBERICA

CAVITE

CAVITE STATE UNIVERSITY

COFFEE

FIGARO COFFEE FARM

FIGARO FOUNDATION

GERMAN DEVELOPMENT SERVICE

JAYMI

JUPITER STREET

KOREA GARDEN

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