Mama Sita’s recipe for success

MENTION THE NAME OF MAMA SITA AROUND THESE PARTS AND chances are you’ll get one of two reactions: "Yung matabang babae?" or some standard line about Filipino recipe mixes.

Now ask a balikbayan or a foreigner for his/her take on it, and the first response will most likely include a smile. There may be too an appreciative slurp, followed by an animated, mouth-watering narrative on the various dishes, and how much they enjoyed cooking them. And while some might laugh at such low-brow reactions, others will stand by their sauce. For many souls out there, Mama Sita’s is more than just simple seasoning; it’s a way of life.

"It’s ironic," says Ramon Reyes, one of the 11 children of Mama Sita Reyes. "We are valued more overseas than in our own country... it’s understandable, I guess, because people do tend to take for granted things that are easy to reach."

Ramon, obviously an important figure in this business, is semi-retired now, as he puts it, but still spends most of his time in their San Juan office or visiting the factory in Pasig City. "What else is there to do?" he asks in jest.

Ever since the Mama Sita’s line of mixes and sauces was founded 24 years ago, it has always sold incredibly well. And along with their Aristocrat restaurants, the Reyeses became one of the most successful all-Filipino business families of the 80s and early 90s.

And part of the reason for that boom is their shrewd, marketing strategy, which they developed with Marigold Commodities, the corporation that manufactures their products. It may have also helped that the clan, many of whom are exceptionally gifted in the kitchen, created a good solid reputation for the brand. But most of all, much of it is still credited to Mama Sita’s (a.k.a. Teresita Reyes) gift for capturing the authentic Pinoy flavor. That, along with its international appeal, was their recipe for success.

"To tell you honestly, Mama Sita’s has always been aimed at markets abroad," Ramon shares as we are stuck in traffic enroute to their Pasig factory. "Our mixes are being sold mostly to Filipinos overseas and to people of other nationalities. It’s only recently that our company is making an effort to compete locally. And surprisingly, we’re also doing well here."

"Siguro kasi mas natural and pure ang mga sangkap namin kaysa sa iba. Like in the sinigang mix of one brand, they market it ‘with real sampaloc’ or something like that, when in truth it only contains acids to make it sour. Peke! Kaya naman we’re still big after all this time, kasi totoo ang lahat ng produkto namin."

Ramon may have overshot the descriptions a bit, however, since Mama Sita’s reportedly also adds some artificial ingredients in their products. Their spices for the escabeche mix, for instance, include a "synthetic sweetener". Not surprisingly, this is also reportedly contained in several of their bottled goods, like oyster sauce. And from this viewpoint, the reality of being commercial and mass-produced takes over.

Nonetheless, he is right to declare that Mama Sita’s quality is "a lot better" and "healthier" than the other brands, because it also has plenty of natural flavors packed in each sachet or bottle. "Kami nalang yata ang may tunay na gabi sa sinigang mix, eh," Ramon quips as we arrive at the steel front gate of the factory.

Inside, a large shed occupies the left portion of the driveway while an unpainted edifice is set in front. This houses the cooking laboratories, along with a spacious, ballroom-like canteen. At the back of the compound stands Mama Sita’s main building–an elegant dome decorated with a dozen pairs of glass widows. As expected, a giant company logo and pictures of Teresita Reyes are displayed at the entrance lobby.

This may sound a little odd, but exploring these premises may be likened to walking around a condemned warehouse in Escolta. It‘s not that the structures are stripped down to bare walls, mind you; it’s simply because, for a place that employs hundreds of workers, it is so devastatingly quiet it is almost eerie.

Fortunately though, it’s a different story once you’re inside the concrete halls. The kitchen lab, for example, is often filled with new tastes and delectable aromas. And this, at least, is an acceptable fantasy in a food factory.

Meet Raymond, my nephew," Ramon chuckles as he introduces the chef-for-the-day. "I figured that he could whip-up something for lunch while we stroll around." Chef Raymond courteously bows and gives details of his version of "fish and chips in vinegar-mayo, vegetables with a creamy dip, and a Bloody Mary cocktail with labuyo sauce."

If the thought of mixing adobo sauce with cold, sour cream might make culinary purists and snobs gag, let me say it definitely tastes better than it sounds. Or looks–the dip has that unappealing mocha color, but the tangy hint of soy and vinegar, plus the richness and body of whipped yogurt, is exotic to say the least.

"The great thing about our spices is that you can fuse them with basic recipes to create an exciting new dish. It’s fun to experiment," stresses Raymond, while he coats slices of fresh lapu-lapu in a flour mix.

At 31, Ray, as he likes to be called, is already an accomplished chef and has participated in international cooking tours. "I’ve been cooking since I was seven," he shares with pleasure. "And I have the scars to prove it."

You might think Ray has gotten tired of this field after being exposed to it his entire life. But seeing his enthusiasm and extreme fussiness– even over the most minor details such as peeling a carrot–it’s pretty obvious that he has inherited the Reyeses’ love for good food–and the preparation thereof.

Indeed, it is this family’s passion for good food (Teresita’s especially) that started this whole thing in the first place.

Mother was always a great cook," Ramon imparts. "And I remember as kids how she encouraged us to enjoy food, no matter how simple. At never kami napilitan kasi masarap naman talaga ang luto ng nanay namin, eh."

It’s hard to imagine that, as late as the 1970s, only Mama Sita‘s kin and close friends were fortunate enough to have sampled her delectable recipes. Ramon explains that apart from being bent on having the finest ingredients around, Mama Sita chose to "cook from her heart". He says this made the dishes even more special.

"She just wanted the choicest flavors to put in the pot, like unang tulo ng patis. And mahirap sabihin kung ano ang the best sa mga gawa niya, kasi they’re all delicious. Pero siguro her adobo and palabok ang talagang nag-stand-out," Ramon relates a little uncomfortably while eyeing Ray impatiently as he puts the finishing touches on his lunch presentation.

"Viola! And shee iz finî," he cries in mock French. He then insists on decorating the table with vegetables and black pepper, even going as far as placing a frozen fish, claiming that it will "add character". Needless to say, this idea was dismissed quite harshly by his exasperated uncle.

But again, this stubborness and desire for perfection can be taken as a positive trait, for it has yielded handsome profits for the Reyes business.

Today, Mama Sita’s products have gained acceptability and acclaim in Filipino households throughout the country as well as in kitchens and homes around the world. From 15 kinds of mixes (popular sinigang in three varieties, palabok, caldereta, even ginisang munggo) to oyster sauce (regular and vegetarian) to sukang tuba (coconut nectar vinegar) to achuete powder, Mama Sita’s has got the range of Filipino dishes covered.

"They’re everywhere–just like Filipinos!" Ramon exclaims. "It‘s easier to enumerate the countries that don’t carry our brand than those that do." He cites Afghanistan and Russia as examples of the unfortunate few. Recently, Mama Sita’s was introduced in Myanmar through a food festival held at the Traders Hotel in Yangon organized by Philippine Ambassador Phoebe Gomez. Attended by leading officials of the Myanmar government and members of the Filipino community in Yangon, the festival opening featured a demonstration of the preparation of palabok by chef Joyce Lapus Sandoval, granddaughter of Mama Sita.

"Our mixes and sauces are (found) worldwide because Pinoys continue to crave a taste of home cooking wherever they are," he says. "The bestsellers are obviously the most popular Pinoy dishes like sinigang and kare-kare. And because our products continue to sell very well internationally, we’re now planning to put up factories in the US to make the distribution easier."

It was a scrumptious lunch, although Ramon turns a bit quiet after leaving the factory. Perhaps he got a little irritatetd with the traffic jams on the way home, or maybe he’s thinking of a new dish to share with the Reyes clan.

But whatever the reason, it actually matters little. Because the important thing is that he’s committed in maintaining the quality of Mama Sita’s products. And it’s not just for flourishing in the food industry now. It’s also for keeping his mother’s legacy alive.