Redefining Basque cooking at Goxo

There’s a new restaurant in Salcedo Village in Makati that sets out to redefine Basque cooking. Goxo, which means “delicious” in Basque, is a 12-seater restaurant in the Salcedo Village branch of Bar Pintxos. They servedinner only and they currently offer a fixed-price menu.

Goxo is from the same group that brought us Bar Pintxos and Txoko and is helmed by Chef Albert Mendoza. The restaurant is behind a hidden wall of Bar Pintxos and the cuisine pays tribute to timeless Spanish recipes influenced by food cultures around the world.

There are two menus available — each menu serves starters, a choice of a main course, and a dessert. Prix Fixe menu 1 is at P3,500 (three starters) and Prix Fixe menu 2 (five starters) is at 4,950, both inclusive of the 12 percent VAT but subject to a 10-percent service charge.

I have not tried every starter but what I tasted, I did like! “Entrada” or starters will depend on which Prix Fixe menu is selected. A big surprise for me was the talakitok (trevally) which Albert sliced thinly and made into a jamon-like texture and served with compressed melon! This dish served with Italian straciatella cheese and almonds was inspired by the classic Prosciutto e Melone (Italian Ham and Melon).

Two other starters that I had were the Rilette — duck inasal style with coconut cream on potato pave and Foie— duck or goose liver with quince jelly and truffle honey on milk bread. Then there’s the Mollejas - sweetbread, adlai (job’s tears), pickled onion, and guindilla (a traditional chil from the Basque region) that should be drizzled with burnt calamansi and the Iberico – Iberian pluma (the neck end of the pork loin) with pineapple chutney.

I enjoyed all of these but I have yet to try the Crab, Uni, and Anchovy starter – crab paste, sea urchin, and anchovy served with udon or Japanese noodles.

There are four “Principal” or main course choices: Gambones — prawn, scallop, potato, pumpkin, and bravas oil; Pato — duck leg confit, asparagus, zucchini, and Portobello mushroom, Carilleras - beef cheeks with a 64-degree cooked egg and burnt gata (coconut cream) pilaf; and Pompano – miso glazed pompano.

This is just the start for this “hidden” restaurant and I am looking forward to the other dishes or menus Albert will be developing. *

(Goxo is located at V Corporate Centre, L. P. Leviste Street, Salcedo Village, Makati City. Text or call (0927) 0024200 for inquiries or reservations.)ae