The subway systems of London and Paris

(Part II of “Best Subway Ground Train Models for Philippines to Emulate”)

MANILA, Philippines – London and Paris are among the major cities of the world that are most frequented by tourists. Most of them subscribe to package tours which make the rounds of the top 10 sights of the city riding special buses led by knowledgeable local tour guides. They are usually picked from their hotels or have to gather in a particular spot in the city in the morning for a half-day or full day tour. While Londoners or Parisiennes take for granted the convenience of their subway systems, living in London on a British Council grant and much later working for UNESCO Paris gave me the thrill of a lifetime using the London Tube or Paris Metro.

12 subway lines serve Greater London

I am looking at the map of the London Underground, also known as the Tube. This Metropolitan Railway considered the oldest rapid transit system opened in 1863 using wooden coaches. Today it serves a large part of Greater London and the suburban counties. In 2014-15 it carried 1.305 billion passengers making the Underground the world’s busiest metro system. Despite its name, only 45 percent is actually underground in tunnels. The private companies that owned and ran the railways were merged in 1933 to form the London Passenger Transport Board.

How a student budget afforded frequenting London Theater shows?

In 1964 when I trained at the Associazione Montessori Internazionale (AMI) at Lyndhurst Gardens I lived nearby at a Swiss Convent run by nuns at Hampstead Heath. Of the 11 subway lines, I would take the Jubilee Line from Finchley Road Station downtown to Charing Cross to browse through a large variety of books at Foyles, or to catch matinee theatre shows at Shaftesbury Avenue, a terrible slum area in 1877 and 1886 until the Earl of Shaftesbury improved the housing conditions. He is remembered by the famous bronze statue of Eros in Piccadilly Circus, the West End’s focal point, where crowds and dazzling lights may make one recall the Times Square of New York.

What a joy to watch Fiddler on the Roof and Starlight Express, a story depicting the evolution of railway from steam, electric to magnetic traction. The five theater stars were wearing galactic costumes, gliding effortlessly with roller skates on a circular platform surrounding the audience. Unlike the larger modern Broadway theaters of New York, the London theaters are narrower and high with stunning sets inspired from Shakespeare’s time.

As a student I could get the cheapest tickets that availed me a seat high up on the pigeon roost and see almost all the plays during the winter and spring including Lion King, Cats and Phantom of the Opera. My husband Max and I attended the premier of Miss Saigon with Lea Salonga in 1989 at the Drury Lane Theatre in Covent Garden.

Bakerloo and Central Lines lead to Soho and Trafalgar Square

Considered London’s main venue for rallies and outdoor public meeting as well as blaring New Year’s celebration, exciting photo opportunities take place at Trafalgar Square with the 50m. column. It commemorates the Battle of Trafalgar against Napoleon where Britain’s most famous seaman Admiral Lord Nelson heroically died. A throve of friendly pigeons surround the huge fountain and massive monuments with four colossus lions.

Right beside is the National Gallery, which started in 1824 when George IV persuaded a reluctant government to purchase 38 major paintings by Raphael and Rembrandt starting the growth of a huge collection as rich benefactors contributed works and money, now a total of 2,200 paintings. I recall one Sunday when this collection so fascinated me I almost missed the 6 p.m. Sunday High Tea at the convent where the au pair Spanish, Swiss and German girls help the nuns fix the heavy merienda for us guests. I would also now and then visit Chinatown in the adjacent Soho district Chinatown to make up for the plain British cuisine.

The Parliament, The City, Royal Festival Hall along the Thames

The District and Circle Lines traverse along the Thames River to get one to see The Parliament Hall adjacent to the Westminster Abbey, London’s oldest church. On weekdays, the streets are crowded with members of the civil service as most of their work is based on this area. At weekends it is deserted except for the tourists. There are two Houses of parliament in the Palace of Westminster representing the Lords and Commons. The Commons is made up of elected Members of Parliament (MPs) of different political parties. The party with the most MPs forms the government. The Big Ben Tower rises above the Houses of Parliament. Further up is the financial district of London called The City.

Buckingham Palace is bounded by the long Piccadilly Road but isolated between the huge Green Park and St. James Park. It doubles as an office and a house to the British Monarchy. It is also used for ceremonial reception of visiting heads of state. During summer the Changing of the Guards takes place in front of the palace. The most elaborate of London’s royal ceremonies is the Trooping of the Guards when the Queen salutes a battalion of the Foot Guards.

The Paris Metro

The Paris Metro or Metropolitan (French: Métro de Paris) is a rapid transit system in the Paris Metropolitan Area. It carries 4.210 million passengers a day. It is one of the densest metro systems in the world, with 303 stations within the 86.9 km (34 sq mi) of the city of Paris.

Between 1986 to 1987 I was appointed by the Philippine Minister of Foreign Affairs, Salvador Laurel to represent the country at UNESCO Paris. Its Executive Board, the highly prestigious governing body of UNESCO, officially elected me to become a member. I stayed at a furnished apartment at Place Victor Hugo close to Champs Elysee. Being a newcomer Ambassador Philip Mabilangan would graciously send me a limousine to attend the sessions daily. These lasted two months every spring and fall season between 1986-87. It was during my free time and weekends I got used to travel by metro or the Paris subway and finally mastered it when I continued working at UNESCO residing at one of several three star hotels around UNESCO, specially Hotel Duquesne Eiffel until 2010.

Do it yourself tour of Paris – by subway

With a day population of 12.341M employees and visitors and 2.240M residents, 16 subway lines serve Paris. The city is divided by the Seine River into the right and left bank (La Rive Droit, La Rive Gauche). Any spot in Paris is beautiful and at night the whole city is filled with lights with the Eiffel Tower sparkling like a torch. There are a total of 20 districts or arrondissements.

The Paris Metro lines are identified by the terminus or stations at both ends. The La Defense Line starts in the ultra modern new part of the city going to the Arc De Triomphe or Charles de Gaulle. Known also as Etoile or ‘star’ five major roads spread from it including the Champs Elysee. It goes down to the Opera the famous theater around which is the Grand Hotel and popular La Fayette and Au Printemps department stores with its stained glass dome. It leads to the beautiful Paris City Hall (Hotel de Ville), pass by station Gare de Lyon, the important Nation station and finally, Disneyland.

Parallel to it is line Esplanade de La Defense, which can drop you off at Champs Elysee or Place De La Concorde marking the French Revolution guillotine but is now a glorious fountain. Next stop is the Tuilleries gardens and Louvre Museum leading to Chatelet close to La Cite the island in the middle of the Seine with the Notre Dame Cathedral. Actually this is a nice walk with leisurely window-shopping even from the Champs Elysee down to the Notre Dame. This metro line can reach the Bastille Theatre.

La Rive Gauche, from UNESCO to the Latin Quarter

My favorite and quite affordable bistros are around the 6th and 7th arrondissement where UNESCO is. Do as the Parisians do – eat at a bistro crowded with the locals or have a Crepe for lunch with Camembert, ham and egg or simply butter and sugar. Gare Montparnasse is also “a place to be a local” sharing a three layer platter of fresh oysters and seashells, at the beloved La Cupole. Behind UNESCO is Des Invalides, Napoleon’s burial place. Starting here one can visit Musee de Rodin filled with dozens of magnificent statues like The Kiss. Walk towards Rue de Bac to visit the Shrine of the Miraculous Medal (St. Catherine de Laboure) and shop at Bon Marche (‘popular price’) where I buy my French hats.

Across the Notre Dame to the left bank is the artists and student quarters, the Sorbonne area. This was the real setting of Victor Hugo’s “Les Miserables” where Eponine joined Marius and his courageous student comrades to barricade themselves. Today the student pranksters transform the fountain of San Michelle by St. Germain des Pres into a bubble bath instead. Get that French feel and have a café au lait at Deux Magot and Le Fleur across the street. (Take Line St. Remy-Charles De Gaulle airport to reach Sorbonne.)

Want to view Paris from top? Take Line Porte Dauphine-Nation and go to Sacre Coeur dome cathedral and get that panoramic view. Down the steps is the artists’ district of Montmarte. Bargain with the numerous Vietnamese, Tajikistan and other central Asian artists to do a charcoal paint or cartoon of you or your family; signing it beside a sketch of Sacre Coeur, I got mine for $15 leaving enough for a meal in one of the al fresco eateries in the plaza.

How can a 3-line LRT and MRT transit system serve 13M people

In 1984 the Metro Manila with a population of 11 M constructed LRT 1 (LRT 2 was added in 2003) and MRT followed by 1989. Today there are 13 M people in this metropolitan city. Will this help tourism?

Amy Pamintuan, STAR columnist with her column “Single Destination” last Monday, is hoping against hope that the new Southeast Asia tourism program “Visit ASEAN @ 50” could enable the Philippines rise from the rank of 69th out of 184 countries in terms of tourism contribution to GDP. Among the five founding members of ASEAN we are laggard in tourism. In 2014 Philippines drew only 4.83M visitors ($4.4 B) despite political upheaval, Thailand won a whopping $38.4 B in tourism (24.77M travelers), ahead of Malaysia’s $16.69 B (27.4 M visitors). Malaysia did well in spite of two major disasters. Singapore saw a 3.1 decline in 2014 arrivals (15.1 M travelers). Indonesia drew 9.44M visitors 2014 earning $10.69 B.” When can we draw these many tourists to the Philippines with a poor mass transit railway system?

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