There was an element of camp, whether intentional or not, at the Samsung Metrowear Icon show featuring the latest do-well in the world of international fashion, Oliver Tolentino. Perhaps it was the soundtrack (Kings of Leon’s Use Somebody, now in orchestral version), the bizarre way some of the models would swan down the catwalk, like a ballerina on downers, or the clothes themselves, a thematic parade of colors from violet, green, ivory, yellow, to orange, blue and pink.
This rainbow coalition of eveningwear reminded me of something that I couldn’t put my finger on until my colleague opined that Tolentino has a “Flores de Mayo aesthetic.” Which is not necessarily a bad thing, if you view him as a designer representing the Philippines in Hollywood the way a Venus Raj or a Shamcey Supsup represents the Philippines in beauty pageants. “As most people know, I proudly promote my roots and our native fabrics wherever I go,” Tolentino has said. Indeed, he used local materials like piña, abaca, raw silk cocoon and a new fabric made from water lily and jute when he participated in the United Colors of Fashion charity event and gala.
Tolentino’s star has risen after opening a boutique on Melrose, Los Angeles in 2009 and celebrities were seen wearing his creations on the red carpet. With this nod of approval from international media, it wasn’t long before we feted him ourselves. Metro and Metro Society invited the designer to be their next icon for the Metrowear series and threw him his first gala show in the country.
From the Philippines, to Los Angeles and back again — Tolentino’s “Old Hollywood”-themed collection may have been that in spirit, but its soul is unmistakably Filipino. Aside from the native fabrics, there’s a plethora of ruffles, tiers, rosettes, cutouts and lace — upgraded fiesta clothing in bright colors, frothy textures and conspicuous adornments. Reynas on his parade. At the end of the day, his creations are fun, and perhaps it’s this characteristic that’s winning him fans and famous clientele here and abroad.
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The Samsung Metrowear Icon: Oliver Tolentino gala benefited Bantay Bata and Sagip Kapamilya.