It’s more than just fun in Caramoan.
On a calm night devoid of stars, ride a motorboat on the waters of the Tugawe Bay in Caramoan and be delighted by the sight of what appears to be numerous stars or fireflies dancing in the waters. These effulgent escapes that streak through the vitamin-rich waters around the mangrove routes resemble bursts of fireworks. Under the outrigger of the motorboat, they flicker and dart by you like friendly phantoms below the surface, this time emanating more luminescence into the darkness. The only other time I experienced this was at Mosquito Bay in Vieques, Puerto Rico and I was ecstatic it could be, to a certain degree, witnessed in Caramoan as well.
The evening magnificently transcended into an enchanting showcase of mystery but this is not magic. All this can be attributed to an extremely fragile ecosystem that makes this tropical waterway truly amazing. Scientists claim that while the fallen leaves and roots of the mangroves decompose, scavenging bacteria produce vitamin B12, an essential nutrient for the dinoflagellates — organisms that are part animal and part plant and which actually glow when stirred by any movement. The abundance of mangroves and their root systems allow other nutrients to remain in the bay rather than being flushed out to sea.
If there is one person who understands this and truly supports the cause of preservation and conservation of the environment, it is CamSur Gov. Lray Villafuerte whose movement El Verde, together with his numerous supporters, has bagged its second award from the Guinness Book of World Records for having planted the most number of mangrove seedlings in an hour. To be exact, they have planted 1,009,029 in CamSur. The El Verde Movement aims to plant over 20 million trees before the year’s end. Gov. Lray received the Guinness World Record plaque from Sedya Subasi Gemici adjudicator from Turkey. Lray’s achievement is a feat commended by President NoyNoy Aquino himself.
It’s quite easy to see why accolades have been bestowed upon CamSur. Flying above the countryside of Naga in a chopper piloted by Jonathan Estabillo to take aerial shots was reminiscent of an Amorsolo painting validating God’s poignant landscape. From above, the islands looked scintillating like a surreal painting with splashes of turquoise, jade, aquamarine and azure on a canvas of the darkest blue. One can only be humbled and honored by such intoxicating beauty and grandeur. Like sentinels that guard the tropical territory, towering and dramatic limestone promontories, coves, islets dot the Caramoan peninsula. The seaborne visitor will be welcomed by greenish blue elongated strips that emerge from the sea and pristine sandbars where only birds reside. Caramoan is postcard-perfect — where everything is possible and nothing seems real. It is simply too beautiful and mind-boggling.
Indeed, what we see from above mirrors what resides within. The peace and sanctity of nature resonates like a triumphant chant. The herons hovering gracefully around the lush green terraced rice fields remind us that the air is immaculately clean, thus wildlife does thrive and abound. Caramoan has long been known as Survivor Island for the many international film and television productions like Koh-Lanta Caramoan 2008, a French version of the reality show, which had Gota Beach as its shooting location. The recognition of the Caramoan Islands as a Philippine island destination has attracted a high percentage of visitors every year.
Here, they found their blessed home in the region, favored by the gods, handpicked by the Omnipotent. The rationale for why Survivor has chosen this sanctuary is the same reason why we troop here today: to savor the white sands and azure waters, to explore what lies above and beneath the crystalline waters and more significantly, to fall in love again and again with our own blessed land. This is my third time to experience the Caramoan islands. The first time, we just took a boat ride around the distant coves and islets; the second, we stayed in a homestead with a gracious local family who opened their home to us inquisitive travelers. Today, it is with great joy that we revel in the latest jewel of the islands, the Tugawe Cove Resort, a premier and deluxe lodging in this paradise.
Tugawe Cove is a deluxe boutique resort that features 23 well-appointed cottages on the hilltop, hillside and by the natural lagoon. The cozy accommodations are fully air-conditioned, with LED sets and satellite TV, hot and cold water with huge showers, very comfortable beds with duvet covers, cotton linen and towels. This is the first resort of proprietors Ernesto and Cecilia Magtuto and we commend the dynamic couple for their vision and excellence.
Herzon Bien, the gracious resort supervisor who competently takes care of the operations in the Tugawe Cove Resort, shared they just started last year and have since hosted many satisfied guests. Take a refreshing dip in their exquisite infinity pool with a panoramic view of the islands while enjoying Filipino and international cuisine served from their alfresco kitchen that will be completed very soon. The resort’s architecture was done by Dennis Caramoan from Naga and its interiors were done by Biboy Beltran.
We frolicked in the azure waters of Tugawe Bay after a hearty lunch of freshly caught fish grilled to perfection with lemon butter sauce, grilled squid with juicy sauteed tomatoes and onions with a tangy barbecue sauce and a fish soup cooked delicately in its own juices with fresh vegetables prepared by chef Edsel Delloro. Other specialties here are grilled Spanish mackerel wrapped in bacon, prawn kebab, laing pizza, stir-fried fish with mango and their succulent pepper steak, which, according to one of the Norwegian producers of the show Survivor, is the best.
The air was sweet, even sweeter was the freshly cut chilled pineapples with just the right amount of salt. We tried the kayaks, jet skis and swam to our hearts’ content while viewing the eclectic starfishes of all sizes beckoning us to explore further.
A major highlight of our weekend sojourn in Tugawe Cove Resort was the divine experience of its signature massage. Arlene Zapanta Leoncio, known as the spa guru in Naga, lovingly and patiently nurtured our pains and aches like a well of healing. She combined indigenous hilot treatments with reflexology and shiatsu to create this wonderful modality, which will soon be known as the Tugawe massage. She has trained a number of therapists already and shared that not just anyone can be a masseuse. “One is chosen based on one’s inner qualities of loving kindness, compassion and the ability to be in tune with the receiver of the massage treatment. There is a transfer of kindred energy and this is what makes a significant difference from an ordinary massage,” said Arlene. It is one major reason for my group and I to return to this sanctuary. We declare that we came to the island tired and weary but left exhilarated, rejuvenated, raring to discover the next surreal adventure.
Island hopping was a sublime and surreal quest to find the most beautiful. Just when we thought we had found the most amazing, another isle or cove upstaged it. Finally we just stopped comparing, realizing each jewel had its own priceless charm. From Tugawe Cove Resort, we explored the other islands. For a while, I had forgotten where I actually was. Was I in the French Polynesian islands, the Mediterranean, Micronesia or the Rock Islands of Palau?
It was a rainy day when we boarded the chopper from Caramoan to Naga to catch our Airphil Express plane bound for Manila. All the wonderful activities like swimming, snorkeling, diving, spelunking, trekking and many more that one can engage in when in Caramoan can only be continuously enjoyed if the same opportunities will be there for the future. Sustainability is key to responsible tourism.
Now you know why I say, “It’s more than just fun in Caramoan.”
* * *
For more info, call the CamSur Tourism Office at 0544773172 or log on to www.camsur.com and www.cwcwake.com. For Tugawe Cove Resort reservations, e-mail tugawecoveresort@gmail.com or call +639189657885 or +639175016711
Airphil Express flies daily to Naga. For more info, log on to www.airphilexpress.com
E-mail the author at miladay.jewels@gmail.com.