Having visited many museums and churches in Europe and Asia together, my former batchmates and I dare say that San Agustin Church and Museum is in itself one enduring masterpiece. As the oldest existing edifice, and perhaps the most beautiful, in the country, it serves many purposes: a case study for architecture students, an attraction for aficionados of the arts, a favored destination for local and foreign tourists, a peaceful oasis for travelers and, in our case, Augustinians that we will always be, the rock of our identity.
"We wish to honor Miguel Lopez de Legazpi, the first Governor General of the Philippines, with this exhibit," Fr. Galende enthused while we viewed the huge tarpaulins that essay the contributions of Legazpi to the development of the Philippine archipelago. By royal order of Spain’s King Philip II, Legazpi established the Kingdom of Castille in the archipelago by founding the City of Manila now under the competent, sterling stewardship of Mayor Lito Atienza.
Legazpi was born in Zumarraga, a town in Guipuzcoa, Spain. We learned from the exhibit that he was assigned as a notary public in Mexico, encountered Fray Andres de Urdaneta and embarked on a arduous voyage to the Philippines. "When the lure of adventure and the fever of foaming seas and warm moonlit nights had cooled men past their prime of life, was it perhaps their deep loyalty to their king and country that transformed them into conquistadors?" asked Fr. Jose Vicente Braganza rhetorically of the decision of Urdaneta and Legazpi to go on the expedition. It is interesting to note that it was on the sixth day of the voyage, a hundred leagues out of Mexico, that Legazpi opened the secret instruction of the Real Audencia. It was only then that he realized that "the Philippines is your most definite destination." The instruction was contrary to the expectations of Fray Urdaneta who was made to believe by the viceroy that the trip was intended to find the east coast of New Guinea to make a settlement there.
When Legazpi died on Aug. 20, 1572, he was buried in this noble and ever loyal city of his affections. His remains now rest inside a black marble tomb at the right side of the altar of San Agustin Church. A tour of San Agustin Church and Museum is both a date with history and a rendezvous with art. As our senses revelled on the Parisienne chandeliers, the gilded pulpit, and the spectacular frescoes, ace photographer Raymond Saldaña captured through his lens what rendered us speechless.
From the church, we entered the adjacent Sala de la Capitulacion to experience history written in capsules, enlivened by maps, photos, illustrations and art works. This part of the exhibit is divided into four chapters namely Evangelization, Government, Agriculture and Education. A rare find for bookworms is an exact copy Doctrina Christiana, the first book ever published (1583) in the archipelago. Some titles on display include "Antiguas Alfabetos Filipino," "Vocabularia de Lengua Tagal," "Arte Compendido dela Lengua Cebuana," "Practica de Ministerio," and "Conquistas de las Islas Filipinas." Rita, Trish and Marissa, who speak Spanish fluently gladly translated for the rest of us the many interesting inscriptions.
It is worth your while to see the interesting artifacts of religious nature which include an 18th century golden areola, a 17th century ivory crucifix, a 17th century silver chalice and a silver sagrario embedded with black onyx and emeralds.
"Amistad Duradera" is just a part of the encompassing San Agustin Museum. Once finished with viewing the "Enduring Friendship" exhibit one is tempted to see the totality of the museum. The museum features priceless antiques – monstrances, chalices, relics and reliquaries, portapaces and sacred vestments. The church’s choir loft is exquisite. The intricately-worked choir chairs were ordered by Fr. Miguel Serrano and brought from Macao by Archbishop Hernando Guerrero in 1614. Supported by huge elliptical arches, it contains 68 seats made from molave wood with ivory encrustations.
Even more exquisite is the lectern of fine filigree. The lectern was ordered about 300 years ago by Fr. Felix Trillo. Together with the lectern goes a set of cantorales (books used by the monks for the recitation of the Divine Office), handwritten on goatskin during the end of the 16th century and the beginning of the 17th century by Bro. Marcelo de San Agustin, a Filipino Augustinian from Malate. Just beside the cantorales is the 18th century pipe organ to which is attached the memory of renowned composers like Augustinian Fathers Arostegui and Pakil-born Marcelo Adonay.
Prized possessions of the museum include the centuries-old image of Our Lady of Consolation, which used to carry the image of the Sto. Nino. Recently, however, the ivory head of the Sto. Nino as well as its ivory hands and feet of pure gold have been stolen. Fr. Galende has appealed for the return of the missing parts of the Child Jesus image but to this day they have not yet been recovered..
San Agustin Museum is a living testimony of the faith of our forebears. Despite the test of time and natural and man-made calamities, this faith, like the works of art displayed in the museum, has survived and gloriously endured. The museum is a veritable showcase of the collective talents honed throughout the centuries of enduring friendship between two countries – Spain and the Philippines.
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