Observing the inner workings of a commercial enterprise is similar to approaching a story from multiple angles. You gain different persepectives which, taken as a whole, allow you to better understand how something functions. Upon the invitation of the Thai government, through the Ministy of Commerce’s Department of Export Promotion (DEP), I was able to do just that. In this case, I got to look under the hood of the Bangkok fashion industry.
“Thailand earned $17.63 billion from fashion exports in 2009, a moderate increase of 2.24 percent from 2008,” goes Srirat Rastapana, director general of the DEP. Since both the public and private sectors are working hand in hand, she adds that she is confident that the country is well on its way to becoming an ASEAN fashion hub. And from what I saw, I totally believe her.
DAY 1: FASCINATED BY FACTORIES
My field trip began with a stop at Erawan Textile Co. Ltd., a leading fabric manufacturer under the Saha Patana Group. I’ve never set foot inside a facility like this before — more than 88,000 spindles and over 300 air-jet looms populate their Yannawa site — and it was a bit surreal and extremely fascinating.
The 46-year-old company exports 80 percent of its products, which wind up in the US, Australia, Hong Kong and most countries in western Europe. I found out that Erawan sources its cotton fibers from Egypt and Sudan; these, after some spinning and weaving magic, turn into high-quality shirting fabrics that are used by the likes of Brooks Brothers, Gap and Zara.
After lunch it was on to another Thai megafactory: Thanulux Public Company Limited. Over coffee and traditional sweets, Wichai Suthitivanich, Thanalux’s friendly managing director, mentioned that the company started in 1975 with a license to produce men’s shirts under the Arrow brand. Since then, they have gone on to produce ready-to-wear clothing for Guy Laroche, Morgan and Daks. Of course, they also have in-house labels; Itch, a one-and-a-half-year-old brand aimed at teen and twentysomething guys, happens to be a personal favorite.
Thanalux takes pride in the fact that it continues to grow, diversify and innovate. I noticed that the tiny finishing scissors their workers use are attached to a tube that sucks — and collects — the extra thread that would’ve wound up dirtying the factory floor. It is an OCD employee’s dream workplace.
DAY 2: TIME TO LOOK EAST
The next day, I had the privilege of attending the Bangkok International Fashion Fair and Bangkok International Leather Fair 2010. Held at Impact Muang Thong Thani, a rather impressive convention center, BIFF & BIL 2010 gathered leather and textile suppliers and designers from all 10 ASEAN member countries, making them more accessible to international buyers and media. With the theme “Look East to a New Horizon of Fashion,” it was a mixer that fostered both an exchange of business ideas and regional integration.
Strolling in just as the participants were setting up, I made a beeline for the Designer’s Room, an area dedicated to Thailand’s brightest fashion minds. Wonder Anatomie, designed by 28-year-old Khatikasemiert Chalermkiat, is a standout. With tops embellished with mirrored skulls and cardigans inspired by the human rib cage, the year-old label champions avant-garde at its Eurasian best. Chalermkiat, who goes by the nickname “Pop,” interned as an assistant designer at Maison Martin Margiela in 2008.
Other Thai brands to watch include Guilty Pleasures, Shake Appeal, Curated, Paul B, Sibling and Surreal Objects; mesmerized by the amount of one-off goodies to be had, I struck a few deals that day and managed to snag a few production samples. Most of these designers started out by selling their stuff at the Chattuchak weekend market and it would be interesting to see where their creativity will take them in a couple of years.
DAY 3: LET’S GO TO THE MALL!
After acquanting myself with the manufacturing and business side of Thai fashion, it was time to get to the heart of things. And so to the mall I went.
Ask any fashion person where he or she goes to stock up on Thai designer goodies and the answer will most likely be Siam Center. Throughout its 37-year history, the shopping mall has pushed local talent under the spotlight while acting as a sweet spot for fashion-loving youngsters.
“Siam Center is like a second home to the guru designers, a cradle for legendary brands and a platform for up-and-comers,” reveals Chadatip Chutrakul, the leading lady of Siam Piwat, Siam Center’s management company. Siam Center on Third, the most designer-heavy floor, currently houses over 37 brands, a diverse lineup that represents the liveliness of the Thai design scene.
Merchandising plays a huge part in today’s retail landscape and Mob.F, on the fourth floor of Siam Center, is fully aware of this. The 1,000-square-meter one-stop shop opened its doors just last Christmas and already it is proving popular with both students and young working Thais. Aside from the attractive price points — collectibles are priced between 200 and 9,900 baht — it’s the combination of fresh brands (Finnegan Gingham, Northernland, No. 27, The Alchemists and 4 celsius) and eye-popping displays that is the real draw.
OTHER SIDE OF THE SPECTRUM
On the other side of the spectrum — and ideally, just a short car ride away — is Platinum Fashion Mall. Targeting both local and international bargain hunters, the massive indoor market is wall-to-wall with almost every imaginable fashion item. From maternity wear to winter clothing, it’s all there — and it’s mindbogglingly cheap.
Ladies with large wheelie bags — some from the Philippines — spend more than half a day combing the stalls for wholesale items to sell back home. It takes a boatload of patience to shop here since finding quality stuff is not, in my opinion, going to happen. Still, it’s worth braving Bangkok’s notorious traffic if stocking up without spending a fortune is your thing.
All in all, my insider peek at the Thai fashion machine was enlightening in more ways than one. Not only did it make me respect the industry players — big and small — even more. It presented a picture of what the Philippines could accomplish if only it got its act together.
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Special thanks to Junie of DEP Thailand and Vorathep Bundhuratana of the Thai Trade Center Philippines. Hey to my new BIFF & BIL buddies: Zigi Mueller, Elisabetta Fabbri, Sam Ishak, Ayunda Wardhani, Liz Mok and Isabel Boren.
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