Balik-Balara II

we ventured back to the Balara Filters and discovered hidden fountains, windmills and playgrounds. This week we continue this journey to find even more treasures – an amphitheater, a hidden spring, a wishing well, more Art Deco buildings, a chapel and finally a tribute to another city, a religious one that today is threatened with explosive strife. Most MetroManilans remember the swimming pools of Balara. They were celebrated in postcards that survive to this day. What has been forgotten are the numerous other amenities that were built in the immediate post-war years to cater to the growing suburban population of Quezon City. One of these amenities catered to the Pinoys’ need for entertainment.
Cool Clams
Filipinos and their varied forms of "palabas" were (and still are) inseparable — even when cooling off at Balara. The sloping sprawl of the land made an ideal setting for an amphitheater. Off to one corner of the site, along the way to the swimming pools, and easily missed because of lush landscape cover, is a whimsical Art Deco gate with letters that spell "Anonas Amphitheater." The guardhouse beside it is sculpted in the shape of a large clam — a preview of what was on the slope below.

I worked my way down the stone steps with Joel Lacsamana and Noel Ong, my hosts from Manila Water on my two trips to Balara recently. The site was filled with trees, which provided the place with amazingly cool shade even in mid-afternoon. Through the thick underbrush, I gleaned a majestic organic shape — the band shell came into focus. It was shaped also like a giant clam — the guardhouse’s mother!

The terraces around the bi-valvian band shell also came into view. All that remains of the seats are the concrete supports. There must have been room for over 800 people. In the midst of the terraces we spotted an odd little structure. One of the kids, who make these ruins their hideaway, drew my attention to it. It was oddly in the shape of a miniature Swiss chalet. Peering inside, I saw telltale little windows on the side facing the stage. I realized then that it was the movie projection house! We now have physical evidence of one of the first outdoor cinemas in the country.

The band shell …or clam is a fantastic structure made of steel. The architect, whoever he or she was, must have had a fertile imagination. Galvanized sheeting was accurately and painstakingly shaped to form the undulating ribs of the shell. Even the side canopies were wavy. The acoustics of the shell, despite its dilapidated state, was great.

As I stood on the stage with Joel, who is an opera lover, he suddenly pointed to the foot of the stage and exclaimed, "Look, it’s an orchestra pit!" We had not noticed it originally because it is now filled with earth. There is even a prompter pit, leading us to believe that plays may have been staged here. Later, Noel Ong, Manila Water’s art and history consultant, interviewed some Nawasa old-timers. They remember that Atang de la Rama performed here. Many more name performers probably graced this outdoor venue, but who was Anonas?

The Anonas amphitheater was named after the first Filipino director of the waterworks, Gregorio Anonas. The original improvements to the grounds were implemented under him during the time of President Quezon. Post-war improvements seem to have been implemented first under the helms of Manuel Mañosa and Oscar Ilustre, then others who followed.
Hidden Garden, Holy City
Balara is also a community that started in the pre-war years when employees needed housing. The site was considered almost a ‘provincial’ posting being separated from the central Manila head office of the waterworks, whose structure still stands beside the beleaguered Mehan Gardens.

Quaint bungalow houses were constructed along with community facilities. These still stand and should be conserved as few housing types from that era survive. The houses and facilities that followed immediately after the war also still stand. Amongst them is a canteen, which follows the architecture of the amphitheater bandstand and other structures around the swimming pools.

Then there is a chapel. This is done in a spare Itallianate style but more interesting is the garden behind and below it. The chapel sits at the top of a gully beside the Anonas amphitheater. Steps lead down to the gully and stop in a clearing with a wishing well. It was a faux well, the water being pumped from the mains. It was picturesque nevertheless, more so when the faux stone bridge beside it still spanned the gully to the other side — where a toilet kiosk served the needs of visitors to answer the call of nature.

Nature sits all around this fabulous garden. Noel Ong found out from his "old-timers" that the water flowed from a spring into a lily pond with geese. On the opposite of the well is a cove, now almost completely hidden. Inside, according to Joel, was a nativity scene. Apparently the garden was a favorite among visitors whose concept of rest included that of one’s religious spirit.

A special feature also marked this garden. Off to one side along the stone steps is a small plateau and what holds what seemed at first to be some kind of low relief pattern. After the leaves and humus were cleared away, the relief revealed itself to be miniature buildings and streets. It is the City of Jerusalem! (Whose problems are so out of hand that God Himself must be thinking of coming down to wage His own war on the axis of terrorism His children keep rotating.)
Reviving Balara
With all these amenities and the swimming complex itself, the Balara is more than just a park with pools. It is a religious sanctuary with grottoes and shrines. It has picnic groves and terraces with all manner of water features — like a giant lion head spouting the filter’s backwash water. It has playgrounds, aquariums, monuments and fine examples of pre- and post-war institutional architecture. It is a distinctive destination for locals and tourists, one that should be revived and made accessible to all.

As I mentioned in last week’s article, the MWSS – led by its Administrator Orly Andrade, along with Manila Water with its president Atonino T. Aquino, human resources director Ramon de Leon, assisted by Rosenni Basilio (with her resourceful staff) – is spearheading a Balara Community Development Plan. Its objectives are the conservation of the Filter’s built and natural amenities, the revival of Balara as a visitor destination and finally, the strengthening of the Balara Community.

Wouldn’t it be wonderful to find a clean and green alternative to monster malls, crowded streets and roadside fast food? Wouldn’t it be so romantic to catch a play or concert al fresco? Wouldn’t it be great to find a place for our kids to play that does not involve violence and gore in cyberspace?

We all look forward to going back to Balara …once it returns to its glorious old self. Mag balik-Balara tayong lahat!

If you have any memories of Balara immortalized in pictures or prose, please send them to me or Joel Lacsamana, corporate communications director of Manila Water at joel.lacsamana@manilawateronline.com or call 981-81-21. Feedback is welcome. Please e-mail the writer at citysensephilstar@hotmail.com.ph.

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