BACOLOD, Philippines — It's a more or less an hour drive away from Bacolod City, but a trip to Kusinata is worth it if one wants to dine with a fantastic view of a lush mountain range with the striking sight of Malatan-og Falls, which stands out as a stream of white that falls out off the mountain's front, and help the Ata community of Don Salvador Benedicto in Negros Occidental.
Dining in Kusinata evokes a gamut of emotions. On a lucky day, one can see a bird with its magnificent wing span hovering and flying at eye level while one is munching on an appetizing plate of Pako-pako salad, with the endemic fern sourced from one of the Ata communities in the restaurant's environs. Thus, it is advised to bring a digital camera or a phone with a pro-camera.
On a regular day, which is from Tuesday to Saturday as the restaurant's business hours, diners can simply bask and take Instagram-worthy photos with such a gorgeous backdrop and platefuls of appetizing food.
Most importantly, guests can feel at home in Kusinata, with its familiar fare of Bagnet, Kare-Kare, and the must-try Chicken Binakol, cooked and seasoned to perfection that leaves many diners wanting to slurp more of its savory coconut stew.
Kusinata, as its name suggests, means "kitchen of the Atas," the name the indigenous people of Don Salvador Benedicto call themselves.
Behind every meal served at Kusinata is the advocacy of providing sustainable livelihood for the Atas of Don Salvador Benedicto. It is with this urgency that its resident chef, Jay Grey, has been insistent on putting the spotlight on their cause more than anything else.
Social enterprise
Turning four this March, Kusinata was put up by Chef Jay's family in 2019. His mother, Mary Lucille, quoted her priest friend's remark that Kusinata was born out of "providential arrangement of circumstances."
In an interview with select media, Lucille shared how Kusinata had grown so fast in a span of four years from just being a weekend retreat house that juts out of a cliff with a magnificent mountain view.
"We just had this parang weekend retreat house. 'Yung anak ko as a graduation requirement niya, thesis niya is study on the self-esteem of the Ata. During the preparation of his thesis, he immersed with the community. That's how we started with our yearly outreach," Lucille recalled.
She referred to her son Jay, a psychology graduate. Jay took up cookery at Technical Education and Skills Development Authority (TESDA) while waiting for his board exam. He had his internship in the famed Breakfast at Antonio's in Tagaytay, and one year later, he decided to join Kusinata.
The Greys started with gift-giving until they introduced livelihood workshops such as haircutting and manicure-pedicure for the Atas in 2018. It was a year later that Kusinata was opened with 20 seats, and most of its staff are Atas.
"At first, I didn't know this will sustain our projects with them. But you know (points up). Sabi ng isang priest, providential arrangement of circumstances," she recalled.
Their menu was developed by their circle of chef friends. Among them was Seda's executive chef Ynan del Rosario, chef David Earl Dadivas, and chef John Marck Aquino from Bacolod. Apart from the waitstaff, Kusinata also honed Atas to become their chefs, namely, Reviel Villapana and Jolito Pandac.
Their menu is a fusion of mainstream and indigenous cuisine, Lucille said, with a little bit of vegetarian offerings.
Their All-Day Breakfast includes Beef Tapa and Adobo Flakes served with Garlic Rice and choice of scrambled or fried egg, starting at P215. Their famed Pako-pako salad (P194) can be topped with Red Egg, Balingon (dried fish like dilis) or Bagnet.
Their Lunch Specials are undoubtedly the favorites, with a curious selection of Filipino favorites as previously mentioned and an introduction to international fare, such as BBQ Back Ribs, Sardine Pesto Pasta and the Middle Eastern tomato-based fare Shakshouka with bread. Their servings can be pretty big for one person and starts at P200.
They also have desserts, and the must-try is Budbud with Tablea, which is basically steamed sticky rice served with rich chocolate syrup or drinks.
Going full circle
The nursing graduate, banker by profession and now restaurateur Lucille said they wanted to help the Atas earn a living and aspire for a good life. She noted how some of her staff married early, as young as 16. She wanted to help them earn a living by employing them and sourcing their ingredients from their communities. Apart from serving palatable dishes, Kusinata also sells local produce and products such as raw honey, turmeric brew, mango habanero and pandan hats, bags, and plates.
These days, her initial 20-seater restaurant with a view has become a venue for small gatherings, sitting as many as 80 people. Lucille said she wants to do a full circle for the Ata community.
She started by giving them jobs, and she's now working on providing them housing and land, as these were matters that the Atas have found themselves lately.
"I have to make a full circle. Out of my savings, I bought a land for them, for them to be not displaced anymore. Wala pa akong pabahay sa kanila, maybe in the future, but at least, I prepared na a land for them," she said.
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