Carefully prepared chocolate is as healthful a food as it is pleasant; that it is nourishing and easily digested; that it does not cause the same harmful effects to feminine beauty which are blamed on coffee, but is on the contrary a remedy for them. — Jean-Antheleme Brillat-Savarin
Research tells us 14 out of any 10 individuals like chocolate.— Sandra Boynton
My love for chocolate started in mom’s baking class, when I would listen in on the lesson. There I would see a box of dark chocolate on the table and, curious to find out more, I would sneak some in the back kitchen and taste them. Talk about indulgence: I would savor every bite until there was nothing left, with my face and fingers smeared as the only evidence it ever existed.
As time passed, I discovered that each chocolate is different from another in texture, structure and flavor — much like wine has its own distinct personality — with climate and soil playing an important role in the way it’s developed.
My further studies at Ecole Lenotre France in my classical desserts class further enhanced my knowledge, which was supplemented during my trip to Switzerland. Whether it is for mouthwatering desserts or savory recipes, there is no denying that chocolate is a prized ingredient that will feed your gastronomic desires.
Chocolate is derived from the bean of a tree called Theobroma cacao, found in Central and South America. It was first discovered by the Mayan and Aztec civilizations, brewed as a drink and offered to the gods during tribal rituals. So valuable was it that it was used as currency and stored in safe houses because it was considered a treasure. Even the great Montezuma called it the “divine drink,” as it was thought to build resistance and fight fatigue.
Then, in 1502 during Columbus’ fourth voyage, cocoa beans were brought back and given to the king of Spain. Unfortunately nobody paid much attention and little interest was paid until 20 years later when Cortez conquered Mexico and introduced cocoa. The drink was called xocolatle, which roughly translates to “bitter drink.” As time passed it was sweetened with sugar and old-world spices like anise and cinnamon were integrated to reduce the bitter taste. Molinillo or a wooden swizzle stick was used to froth the chocolate and it was transferred from one cup to another to add effect. It was now chocolate liquor, reserved for the elite.
The process of chocolate making is simple but exact. The beans selected must be 20 degrees from the equator and the altitude must not be too high or the temperature below 16 degrees Celsius. After four years, cocoa trees start producing beans, found in the thickest part of the tree and harvested twice a year. The two main beans are Forastero, which provides 80 percent of the world supply, and Criollo, a superior-tasting bean often incorporated with Forastero for better flavor. Its initial phase is fermentation and drying, where it is left out in the sun until the seed opens and the bean loses 50 percent of its weight. This is followed by roasting at low temperatures to bring out the flavor. After it is cracked open, it’s ground to remove the cocoa butter, forming a paste that is unsweetened cooking chocolate. Further pressing releases more cocoa butter, a process developed by the Van Houten family in 1828. Though the extraction made it taste better, incorporating some of the extracted cocoa butter made it smoother and able to absorb more sugar, creating a chocolate you could eat.
Conching, a procedure introduced by Lindt in 1880, uses melted chocolate, stirred by rotating blades. This makes the texture smoother, removes excess moisture and volatile acids, making it stable and richer to the palate. It makes you feel good because it contains the caffeine theobromine, and phenol, which in some studies aids against heart disease. Further studies showed that dark chocolate contains flavonoids, disease-fighting antioxidants similarly found in wines and vegetables.
Fast forward to the present, when I recently attended the Chocolate Indulgence cooking class by corporate pastry chef Anil Rohira of the world-renowned Felchlin Chocolates Switzerland held at Old Manila in the Peninsula Manila Hotel. A culinary adventure to tickle your taste buds, it was attended by working professionals, journalists, and holidaying guests of the hotel — a true testament that Felchlin products can bring one and all together.
Chef Anil patiently illustrated the beauty and process of how it all comes together, and with his enlightening and nouveau techniques, I was impressed by his various tips and willingness to share his knowledge. To appreciate it one must have an empty stomach to really digest the various aromas and flavors. He further emphasized that if the beans aren’t fermented properly the “end product will not taste well.” Roasting gives it the bitter taste and the smoothness is from the cocoa butter, which makes it melt at body temperature, thus the term “melts in your mouth.” The percentage seen at the back of packages describes both the bean and cocoa content, and the popular milk chocolate is sweetened chocolate containing not less than 12 percent milk and not less than 10 percent chocolate liqueur, further showcasing that chocolate only complements the product and that milk gets top billing.
Using the microwave is the best method for melting because it is dry throughout, while a double boiler introduces moisture that completely affects the texture. Adding milk and sugar and boiling it together before adding a vigorously mixed egg, then the chocolate, creates a beautiful mousse that doesn’t need gelatin to keep it together. High sugar content in a brownie acts a preservative and makes it moister.
After the event we were treated to dishes prepared by the highly talented Peninsula executive chef Freddy Schmidt. With exquisite creations in which chocolate was incorporated into savory dishes, masterpieces like steamed lapu-lapu with a dust of “Gure de cacao” and the oven-roasted five-spice venison loin with Dominican Elevisa dark chocolate sauce were delectable. The frozen Bolivia chocolate Liegois granite coffee mousse dessert cleverly prepared by pastry chef Sebastian Coquery was unique and prominently took center stage.
Felchlin Chocolates and the Peninsula Manila are at the top of their game, heightening chocolate appreciation with elegance, style, and brilliance.
Almond Brownie
by Chef Anil Rohira and Felchlin Switzerland
Ingredients:
200 g almond powder
160 g soft butter
130 g granulated sugar
140 g inverted sugar
440 g praline paste
150 g whole eggs
40 g cocoa powder
20 g cornstarch
2 vanilla beans
80 g almond slivers
Procedure:
Mix all ingredients together except for the almond slivers, which you incorporate at the end. Spread the mixture in a frame 1.2 x 1.2 x 0.3 inches and bake in convection oven at 160 C or 320 F for 25 minutes.
Discoveries of the Week
A longstanding hit, the chocolate buffet at The Peninsula Manila lobby is now open until Dec. 30 (except Christmas Eve) every Friday and Saturday from 8 p.m. to midnight. For sweet endings, end your dinner at the chocolate buffet after dining at any restaurant for P400. For champagne and chocolate lovers, the hotel offers a P1,000 promo, which includes one glass of champagne. Kids may try the children’s buffet promo, which includes a Spider Boy float or milkshake for P460.
Those interested in Felchlin chocolates can contact Werdenberg Corporation, the official distributor, at 840-3771 to 82.
For recipes and schedule of classes, visit www.sylviareynosogala.com or www.facebook.com/Sylvia Reynoso Gala Culinary or call 671-4489 or 98.