Cantonese cooking with Malaysian touch at Pavilion’s Peony Garden

From a favorite Chinese restaurant springs forth the peony, China’s traditional flower, blooming to propagate its country’s ancient and intricate cuisine.

Deep within the heart of Manila Pavilion Hotel rises the Peony Garden, a new restaurant that serves Chinese food in the grand fashion it deserves.

Widely regarded as one of the richest and most diverse culinary heritages on earth, the Chinese food Peony Garden offers is faithful to traditional recipes but presented in a stylish and contemporary setting.

Peony Garden focuses on Southern China’s Cantonese cuisine. What makes Peony Garden distinct is the subtle touch of Malaysian flavor in its menu.

At the helm of Peony Garden is Malaysian Chinese chef Lee Yan Feng, who pieced together a comprehensive menu of a la carte and set dishes. Assisting him is fellow Malaysian Chinese Fong Meng Fat, who lends his expertise by preparing tempting dim sum.

Staying true to the Cantonese philosophy of cooking, chef Lee uses fresh ingredients while bringing out, rather than drowning out, their flavors. With his Malaysian influence, he uses spices slightly more flavorful than what is usual in Cantonese cooking.

Peony Garden displays by its entrance a large aquarium setup housing different kinds of live seafood: blue dotted, king, lapu-lapu, mameng and panther fishes, crabs, lobsters, and eels. This is the best proof of freshness of Peony Garden’s dishes. From this tank, customers choose the seafood they want to be prepared however they want – fried, sautéed, or steamed.

Peony Garden would not be considered truly Cantonese without its unique specialty of slow-cooked soup. In its extensive selection, there is even a separate section for shark’s fin and bird’s nest soup.

When asked about Peony Garden’s signature dish, chef Lee takes pride in his homemade bean curd, spareribs honey sauce and sautéed cuttlefish with black pepper sauce.

Just as intricate as its cuisine is Chinese art. Peony Garden’s interiors are as impressive as its menu. Its name and logo stand out on a background of bronze cladding with backlight. Surrounding the main doors are slabs of wood, with carvings depicting Chinese artifacts. The carvings were handcrafted so carefully that it took two months to complete.

Upon entering, a partition, with a design also based on Chinese artifacts, welcomes guests. A full view of Peony Garden reveals a restaurant that is classy and homey. Its red, gold, and earth color schemes are well illuminated by soft lights, thereby creating a very attractive look.

At the corners of Peony Garden are two pocket dining or bench-seating areas with a backdrop of bronze cladding. There are three private rooms: Sunflower, Lotus, and Peach. Sunflower is the biggest, seating 16 persons, followed by Lotus with 12, and Peach with 10. However, the Sunflower and Peach rooms are adjacent and may be joined together for bigger groups.

What makes the private rooms attractive are the artifacts displayed on the shelves. Instead of paintings, vases and pots are on display, creating an interesting ambience. Movable walls connect the private rooms, and these may be closed or left open depending on guests’ preference.

A waterfall or cascade flows at the rightmost wall to signify a prosperous future for the restaurant. Beside it are nine glass panels etched with Chinese designs, each depicting a different scene. Soon, another scene will fill the corners of Peony Garden, that of satisfied diners who appreciate the rich culinary heritage of China coming alive in a contemporary setting.

The Peony Garden is open daily for lunch from 12 to 3 p.m. and dinner from 6:30 to 10:30 p.m. For inquiries, call Manila Pavilion Hotel at 526-1212 local 2303.

Manila Pavilion Hotel is now part of Waterfront Philippines Inc., the largest Filipino hotel chain in the country. It is located along United Nations Ave. corner Maria Orosa St., Ermita, Manila.

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