Wasabi is prepared by grating the fresh rhizome against a rough surface. It gives grated wasabi a smooth, soft and aromatic finish.
The best way to enjoy the full flavor of fresh wasabi is to spread a little of it on the fish, and then dip the fish side of the sushi in the soy sauce so that it does not touch the wasabi. Good fresh wasabi and wasabi paste do not just add spicy hotness and sweetness, but also a gentle fragrance that enhances the taste of fresh fish with soy sauce.
Many diners, however, prefer to mix the wasabi paste with soy sauce, called wasabi-joyu, and use this as a dipping sauce for the raw fish, or mix the wasabi directly into a bowl of noodles.
But don’t be fooled. The green smooth textured clump on the side of your sushi dish that is served in most Japanese restaurants today is rarely the real McCoy. In the last 30 years or so, because of the low supply of fresh wasabi rhizome and its prohibitive cost, substitutes made of mixtures of horseradish, mustard and food coloring have taken the place of freshly prepared wasabi. And this is what we get today in the commercial powdered or toothpaste tube form.
The first time I tried freshly grated wasabi here in Manila was at Wasabi Bistro along Makati Ave., just right behind The Peninsula Manila. It was just a week open back then in December 1999. What made me decide to try the restaurant was its name. My food-conscious mind was thinking that the restaurant must have modern interiors, judging from the façade and business sign, but with traditional authentic Japanese cooking.
As it turns out, Wasabi is not your typical Japanese restaurant. The interiors are contemporary with hints of traditional Japanese details that give it a dramatic effect. Its innovative offerings are the brainchild of the Japanese Kumi Iseki, who is based in Hawaii. Her original Wasabi Bistro in Honolulu serves trendy fusion cuisine that is a mixture of traditional Japanese sensitivity and the flavors of the Pacific Rim. Its Rainbow Roll (assorted sashimi fillets wrapped in seasoned rice), The No. 1 Special (baked creamy crabmeat wrapped in whitefish fillet), grilled gindara in a teriyaki glaze and its exclusive green tea cheesecake left me wanting for more. And it served freshly grated wasabi to boot.
Just before the holidays, Mary Ann and I visited Wasabi. There has been quite a makeover in the interiors and menu, to shed off its exclusive image and meet the demands of a younger and more adventurous clientele (hence the sake bar term attached to its name). Its stylish 200-seat modern look includes a private dining room and a 20-seat island sushi bar, which occupies almost half of the place, of back-lighted brown onyx, that serves as a theatrical setting for the sake bar it is transformed into by nightfall. Its bar offers a variety of unique Japanese sakes and beers.
We drove home back to Pampanga with extra pounds because of the delicious wonders, namely the Rainbow Roll, a real beauty of a California roll wrapped with sashimi fillet, the fantastic seared tuna, which will impress even the most discriminating tuna enthusiast, and the ever popular No. 1 Special, which is a rolled whitefish fillet stuffed with creamy crabmeat, then baked and topped with a special yummy sauce. My wife, the beef-lover Mary Ann, couldn’t resist the grilled US rib-eye beef, while I was a contended cow with my favorite grilled imported gindara.
A new Japanese chef Kevin Ozeki was enlisted to further enhance its innovative and modern east-meets-west cuisine. The chef sources the freshest available ingredients from Japan, America and Australia. And what’s even better news than that is that he has created wonderful dishes that will not hurt your budget. Try it and see for yourself.