The great halo war

Of all the Pinoy foods that mark the changing seasons (well, officially there’s only dry and wet, but for now, let’s divide the year into summertime and the -ber or cooler months), it is perhaps the bibingka, puto bum-bong and halo-halo that evoke images of seasonal change, no matter how subtle. Though they are served year-round in most establishments, somehow each tastes better if taken in its proper context. What better way to warm our hearts than the sight of piping hot bibingka and a cup of hot tsokolate on a cold Christmas morning? On the other hand, the mere thought of having a tall glass of halo-halo in this summer heat is cooling enough.

Halo-halo, indeed, has come of age, from its humble beginnings at a makeshift roadside stall to the air-conditioned comforts of a five-star hotel. The halo or mix could be as simple or as elaborate as one fancies: From common mung beans, kamote, sago, saging saba, white beans, garbanzos, fresh melon, buko, gulaman, kaong, langka and pinipig to the more luxurious macapuno, nata de coco, sweet corn kernels, ube and leche flan. One could even top it with ice cream. In Arayat, Pampanga, pastillas de leche made from carabao’s milk is added. I’ve tried one in the market in Boac, Marinduque during the Lenten Moriones festival many years ago. It’s mixed with homemade peanut butter. And in the absence of pinipig, corn flakes make a good substitute.

In this unbearable heat, a serving of halo-halo is always a welcome treat. In most neighborhoods, especially in the provinces, there’s a roadside stand offering it at practically every other corner. Go for it!

Summer delights in our midst:

The Kabigtings of Arayat, Pampanga: As I wrote in my last column, what makes their halo-halo great is its utter simplicity. The mix consists only of whole sweet corn kernels, mashed white kidney beans (heavenly in themselves) and a spoonful of carabao’s milk jalea (to die for, same as pastillas de leche). The linamnam (richness) of both the beans and jalea more than compensates for what the halo-halo may lack in textural variety and visual appeal. It simply is incomparable, and a serving costs only P40. Halfway through the serving, as the ice melts, the jalea and the mashed beans have blended, making the creamy stuff simply irresistible you’re tempted to drink it straight from the goblet. Well, I always do. Burrrrrrrrrrrrp!

The Razons of Guagua: Another serendipitous delight with its simple mix of saging saba, macapuno, topped with leche flan. Started in the ’60s by three Razon sisters in their house at L&D Subdivision, in Guagua, Pampanga. Now run by the third-generation Razons, it has branched out to San Fernando and Angeles City (MacArthur Highway, near Angeles University). Like the Kabigtings’ version, theirs is also made simple with only three choice ingredients, but all made delicately, especially the saging saba, with only sun-ripened bananas used.

The Corazons of Angeles City: Started in a garage on Corazon St. at Nepo Subdivision in the late ’90s, today it has branched out to the busy MacArthur Highway (near Angeles University). Unlike the Kabigting and Razon versions, their halo-halo has five ingredients: Saging saba, macapuno, corn, beans and pastillas de leche.