The fall/winter collection of Valentino places an emphasis on globetrotting and searching for one’s roots. The original Roman couturier himself has made red, opulent and glamorous, his signature, for it’s no secret that the old master loved a woman dressed to the nines.
For Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, the current creative directors of Valentino after Valentino himself retired four years ago, the desire to make their own aesthetic mark within the confines of such a storied couture house is in line with this season’s theme. Every season presents the challenge of paying tribute to the heritage they have inherited — and its roots — while breathing new life into the brand in order to attract new fans and give loyal patrons something exciting to look forward to.
However, instead of using recollections of actual journeys as inspiration, Chiuri and Piccioli opted to take an imaginative journey instead, exploring different knowledge, iconographies and traditions with a keen eye. It has always been to the duo’s advantage that, although they share the same tastes fashion-wise, in terms of personality, they couldn’t be more different. In an interview with Harper’s Bazaar, Valentino divulged, “My first impression when I met them 10 years ago was of two people so different from each other, they were able to create an incredibly strong union. A union above and beyond any sort of competition or rivalry. Then I realized that their vision of fashion is extremely different. Pierpaolo is one who enjoys experimenting more. Maria Grazia, being a woman, is more practical and with her feet on the ground.”
This duality is definitely present in the current collection. Convinced that opposites create a contemporary mood, Chiuri and Piccioli explore the power of dichotomy: opulent abandon is immediately countered with crystalline purity. Absolute addition and subtraction become different expressions of the same impulse.
For the most part, there is a touch of old-world romanticism in the collection, which Valentino’s existing client base will appreciate. Blousy, floral floor-length dresses and flowing jumpsuits embody the brand’s soft, feminine side. Demure midi dresses in white, red and black have a certain maiden-like look to them. And the gowns have lines so clean you would balk at the idea of Valentino becoming minimalist until you see the amount of workmanship that has gone into the beading. After all, what is couture if not extravagant?
However, taking the designers’ personal aesthetic into consideration — Chiuri takes to kohl-rimmed eyes and leather leggings, while Piccioli lives in artfully slouched jeans and cool sneaks — it’s inevitable that they will inject clothes that are cool, chic and on-trend. Thus, the collection’s signature ensemble is taken from the opening looks that feature long, narrow black leather capes, tailored see-through shirts and A-line culottes. While it may appear as though this exploration into masculine utilitarianism is too much of a departure from Valentino, one must remember that exquisite tailoring, apart from romantic ruffles, is also the house’s signature.
The materials selected by Chiuri and Piccioli have body and feel thick to the touch: dry wool, jacquard wool, cady, wool lace, leather, and chiffon. The color palette is reduced to primary hues: white, beige, black, midnight blue, and of course, deep red. Splashes of pink are used for a few accents. Jacquard patterns and prints create movement.
The accessories in the collection are not to be overlooked, considering Chiuri and Piccioli have originally been the creative directors of the accessories division of Valentino for 10 years (and designed handbags for Fendi before that) before replacing ex-Gucci designer Alessandra Facchinetti as creative directors of the women’s and men’s collection,and the haute couture line. (Facchinetti was Valentino Garavani’s original successor, but was dismissed after two disappointing seasons.) Accessories for fall/winter include shoes with narrow ankle straps and small square heels, boots with rounded toes, and gloves with metal stud detailing coordinated with bags to create an opulent graphic look.
Under the helm of Chiuri and Picciolo, the Valentino woman continues to evolve from Jackie O., Diana Vreeland and Elizabeth Taylor to the likes of Emma Stone, Anne Hathaway, and anti-it-girl Chloë Sevigny. In the same inteview with Harper’s Bazaar, Linda Fargo, senior vice president of Bergdorf Goodman’s fashion office, notes, “One of the reasons the new guard of starlets is attracted to their work is that they feel beautiful and modern inside the clothes, and they can, for a moment, slip into an utterly feminine side of themselves. But make no mistake: This isn’t a dusty, rarefied, and precious idea of femininity. There’s a refined and thoughtful balance of old and new unfolding here in the new house of Valentino.”
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Valentino is available only at Adora, 3/F Greenbelt 5, Ayala Center Makati; tel. no. 217-4029.