What does a perfume mogul look like?
He can be a tall and handsome CEO like Olivier Baussan, the founder of L’Occitane, who waxes poetic as he tours you around rows of fragrant lavender blooms in Provence.
Or she can be a young and pretty lady in blue jeans like Camille Goutal, the heiress of the Annick Goutal perfumery, who can talk endlessly about her childhood, scented with memories of her late mother, as she shows you her perfume laboratory in Paris.
But there’s one perfumer whom I have always wanted to meet: Topper Schroeder, the creator of that clean and sexy scent called Gendarme, who strikes me as a maverick. Schroeder is an accidental “nose” who was in the music business before he discovered the scent of success. Allergic to men’s fragrances, he tried a new hypoallergenic cologne offered by a friend. That cologne was never launched in the US market, but Schroeder figured he needed a supply for himself. So he worked with a perfumer to create a similar scent that did not give him an asthmatic reaction. That was in 1983.
Fast forward to the present: Gendarme is a favorite of celebrities like Sharon Stone, Bill Clinton, Tom Cruise, Debra Messing and Shaquille O’Neal. Schroeder created Gendarme for men, but women liked it too.
Gendarme first got free publicity many years ago when Stone talked about this new scent for men that she found “sexy,” and which she herself liked using. At a recent party, Jennifer Lopez’s beloved Marc Anthony said that Gendarme, the scent he was wearing, was “very pretty.”
So on a recent trip to Los Angeles, I sought an appointment with Topper Schroeder, CEO of Gendarme. I wanted to meet this iconic sensation in the perfume industry. Soon, I got a call informing me that I would be fetched from my hotel and brought to his office in West Hollywood.
At the hotel lobby, an amiable-looking man approached me with a smile and said he would be bringing me to the Gendarme office in West Hollywood. ”Oh, you were sent by Topper Schroeder?” I asked.
“I am Topper Schroeder!” he laughed, leading me to the car he himself was driving. And thus began a day of laughter, heartwarming stories and soothing relaxation.
Far from the image of a man in a corporate suit I expected to meet, Schroeder looked so lovably down-to-earth in his casual attire. Nothing stiff or pretentious about this pepper-haired guy who reminded me of my favorite Spanish professor in college. His infectious laughter makes you feel at home right away. And yes, his office looks more like a home. At 9069 Nemo Street stands a simple abode surrounded by shady trees, with a charming courtyard at the back leading to another house with massage rooms.
“The Gendarmerie”, the sign outside read.
“This is a sanctuary where men — and women — can relax, feel at home, get a haircut, a facial, an eye rescue, a detox, a manicure or pedicure, a massage, or a new shirt, blouse or suit,” explained Schroeder. Yes, there is also a haberdashery offering made-to-measure apparel by Geoffrey Macon. At the hair salon, with Bill Ruggiero as the main stylist, I sensed a friendly atmosphere with everyone wearing a smile, especially the customers.
In fact, everyone in Gendarmerie seemed happy chatting, getting a manicure, a new hairdo or a lifting treatment (read: reducing wrinkles). ”Everybody here loves what they do,” said Schroeder. “There is esprit de corps among people working here.” You can also see that Schroeder runs the business like a nurturing head of family. The receptionist — a bubbly and lovely silver-haired lady named Nancy — is Schroeder’s long-time friend who was seeking a post-retirement job. She is a big asset to the company, as valuable as the young and good-looking hairstylists who obviously are gifted with creative scissorhands.
Certainly not aiming to create an elitist atmosphere, Schroeder proudly explained that both celebrities and ordinary people find themselves in good hands here in this salon/spa. He takes the time to chat with each one, whether the dapper, executive type from Beverly Hills or that young lad in the neighborhood wanting to look good. “Yes, we also build self-esteem here.”
Oh yes, Schroeder has one very special celebrity customer from the Philippines — Martin Nievera! “He is more of a friend, we are always texting or calling each other,” he noted. Just as he was saying this, his phone received a text message from Martin. “He says he just arrived in Los Angeles,” explained Schroeder. Obviously, Schroeder enjoys the company of people who also love music — and know how to laugh.
There is a bar and a buffet that is open to customers. The food is good! And Schroeder is a hands-on boss, even in the kitchen. “I learned to cook French at Maisonette, a five-star restaurant, when I left home in Ohio. I have lived in Chicago, New York and California. I love New York City, but I love staying here in Los Angeles now.”
He grew up in Ohio, liking country music. Having been in the music industry for so long, he has become deaf to heavy metal, settling for jazz and classical music instead.
When Schroeder created his scent in 1983, his purpose was to assure a personal supply of a cologne that wouldn’t irritate his skin. He called up several perfumers, and after a series of rejections from those who probably preferred big-time clients, he finally found one willing to help him. However, the manufacturer required him to order a minimum of 750 bottles! He kept some for himself and gave away bottles as presents to his friends in the music industry. His friends liked the scent, and word about the fresh, new clean fragrance soon spread around L.A., until retailers started looking for its creator. When the fashionable boutique Fred Segal offered to launch his scent, he couldn’t resist. His partner Bob Adels christened the new scent “Gendarme” — the French word for police. It was indeed an arresting scent. With only 500 bottles left, Schroeder bravely launched Gendarme. It was a hit!
Today, Gendarme continues to be a bestseller at top department stores like Barneys, Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s. It is also popular in countries like France, Italy, Germany, Switzerland, Australia, Russia and the Philippines, where it is exclusively available at Rustan’s Essenses. Aside from Gendarme, Schroeder has launched other scents like Grabazzi and Gendarme V for men, and Carriere for women, with two more coming soon.
For this maverick perfumer, success came after a series of fortunate events. But Schroeder certainly is not counting on luck or serendipity to assure continued success for Gendarme.
“I haven’t had a vacation in nine years,” he told me. Schroeder developed a complete skincare line, which made him decide that he may as well open his salon/spa, Gendarmerie, in 2004.
He once said in a magazine interview: “I don’t live to work. Family always comes first. If I had to give advice, it would be to like yourself. Love what you do, but also really like yourself — and a sense of humor and laughter can get you through all the rough spots.”
That is precisely the image I get of this perfume mogul. He has a good nose for scents, a brilliant mind for business, and a kind heart for people.
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In the Philippines, Gendarme is distributed exclusively by Rustan’s. It is available at Rustan’s Essenses.