(Part 2)
The new year’s fashion draws inspiration from the classics, from the forums of ancient Rome and Greece to the temples of Japan and China. From colorful pantomime characters like Pierrot and Harlequin to the iconic Woodstock hippies of 1969. But whatever the influence, it is the generously cut out and fluid silhouette that seems to dominate, with comfort as a primary concern, above all else.
Togas
And for pure comfort, you have to turn to the toga, or anything inspired by ancient Rome and Greece. Vera Wang has languorously draped and pleated gowns, as do Alberta Ferretti and Greek designer Sophia Kokosalaki, who comes from the source of all the inspiration. Alber Elbaz at Lanvin modernizes it with his easy wrap dresses which are draped and folded like 21st-century togas. They flow naturally, in primary shades of yellow, green and red, some with a longer hem at the back for a billowing effect.
Pierrots & Harlequins
The death of Marcel Marceau coincided with Viktor & Rolf’s show inspired by the mime artist and Pierrot. Thus came voluminous white ensembles and outfits accessorized with ruffles and other circus accoutrements. Miuccia Prada commissioned Swedish illustrator Liselotte Watkins to create sexy sylphs for her diamond-patterned Harlequin baby dolls at MiuMiu. Catherine Malandrino is more subtle, reinventing the Pierrot silhouette for a top in bright orange paired with cropped black pants.
Rich Hippies
It’s another summer of love but not the bohemian of seasons past, which had penchants for overembellishment and sloppiness. This is a rich hippy inspired by Talitha Getty, remember her, oh ,so soignée and languid, perched on a terrace in Marrakech? She’s the muse for all the flowing skirts, fringed vests and mixed patterns at Etro, Balmain, Roberto Cavalli and Nina Ricci, but now done with an updated contemporary polish.
Asia Society
With the Olympics coming in Beijing, the fashion world turns to Asia. Chinese, Japanese and Korean influences have resulted in an eclectic mix that includes dragon prints at Yohji Yamamoto and shibori fabrics at Tao, Thakoon, Peter Som and Ports 1961. Alessandro Dell’Acqua uses a lot of obi-style belts and perilous clogs reminiscent of the Japanese ones used by geishas. The Mao collar comes in many variations, from the sculptured futuristic ones at Balenciaga to the art nouveau slanted types at Prada. The kimono cut is ubiquitous, virtually transferring the A-line of last season’s skirt to the sleeves of the new season.
Brights
With vibrant, tart colors used for cocktail dresses on many of the runways, it is almost as though the LBD has gone into retirement. The brighter and shorter, the better is the mantra at Narciso Rodriguez, Versace, Gucci and Jil Sander. Orange, which comes in many shades, seems to be a hot color, as are yellow and pink. Lanvin has all the primary colors in intense, upbeat shades.
Gleaming, Not Blinding
Shine has been around for the past few seasons but this time it’s switched to low beam with more burnished shades of metallics. At Nina Ricci, the nouveau boho has a rich luster with satin trousers paired with printed T-shirts while at Calvin Klein, a minimal evening sheath glows like a moonbeam.
Crop The Jacket
The classic tailored jacket has shrunk to create a totally new proportion for next spring. It is virtually non-existent at Jil Sander, asymmetrical and ruched over a dress at Chanel, and color-blocked with an A-line skirt at Louis Vuitton. Christopher Kane makes it in python to subvert the sweetness of a ruffled dress.
Extend The Shoulders
When all the sweetness becomes too much to bear, reassert yourself with some extended shoulders like the deceivingly squared-off ones underneath a loungy pink kimono at Alexander McQueen or the extended ones on a sleeveless white top at Yves Saint Laurent. A softer, rounded version is available at Rick Owens, ingeniously cut to look almost like a shrug in black and white stripes.
Eternal Black & White
Black and white is forever, always dressy, especially on hot summer days when all black just doesn’t seem right. Artsy versions in graphic prints can be seen at Rue du Mail and Jonathan Saunders. They are long and elegant at Yves Saint Laurent and come in a reinvented tux at Lanvin, a takeoff from the one its designer Alber Elbaz loves to wear. At Chanel, sailor references are evident in the black and white eveningwear which also included a novel deconstructed tailcoat.
Light For Evening
Evening gowns are ethereal-light in tissue-thin silk or even in a new, high-tech polyester as seen at Lanvin. Lengths go from mid-calf or maxi retro, harking back to the ’70s, to a sumptuous full length. The look and feeling is one of weightlessness but the colors are eye-popping paradise colors. Hermes has an Indian vibe running through its collection of gowns that has the grace and vibrancy of the most opulent saris. Lanvin had balloon gowns, some strapless and some unishouldered, but always with the liquid softness and rich colors so characteristic of the new season. (To be continued)