Now in its sixth year, the Singapore Fashion Festival is one of Asia Pacific’s most exciting festivals, a major event for influential fashion powerhouses, brand principals, international and local designers, retailers, fashion insiders and shoppers. Presented by the Singapore Tourism Board, it is definitely a signature in the agency’s Uniquely Singapore annual calendar of events. The first regional consumer-focused fashion event where the Spring-Summer collections are made directly available from the catwalk to the customer, the festival establishes the unique city as a top fashion hub and a leading shopping destination for those seeking the latest trends. Offerings range from luxury designer brands and cult and underground fashion names with international reputations; to high-street fashion, emerging designer labels and regional/Singapore designers. True to its fashion-forward reputation, the festival even offers a rare glimpse of some autumn/winter collections of international labels, seen for the first time in the region.
And where else to hold this dream fest but at Orchard Road, the famous shopping street where a purpose-built tent at Ngee Ann City’s Civic Plaza became the venue to host grand galas as well as intimate salon shows from March 24 to April 2. To complete the world-class fashion experience, international supermodel Lily Cole was invited to take on the coveted role as "The Face of Singapore Fashion Festival 2006," gracing gala functions and strutting on the festival’s catwalk. One of the hottest and most in-demand catwalk and campaign models, Lily has done campaigns for all the esteemed fashion houses, from Prada and Louis Vuitton to John Galliano, Hermes and Alexander McQueen. Appearing regularly in worldwide editions of Vogue, Numero and V magazines, among others, she was voted "Model of the Year" at the British Fashion Awards in 2004, and is touted as the next Kate Moss.
The first show at the tent was MTV’s Fashionably Loud, the first of its kind staged outside Europe and the United States, held on the eve of the official opening of the Festival. And what a prelude! It was a virtual rock concert held at 8 p.m. – sans sex and drugs; just pure, unadulterated rock music from top British band Placebo. The music and the sight of the rockers were enough to get the predominantly young crowd high and yes, screaming their lungs out. It was the perfect medium to showcase fashions from Anteprima, Baylene, Ed Hardy, Energie, Fashion Assasin, Givenchy, G-Star, Harley Davidson, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Kenzo, Miss Sixty and Nicholas. Rock music definitely meets rock fashion, a key look this season, which had themes of destruction, renewal and joy. Don’t get funny ideas, the designers are not espousing the first to bring about the second and third – it’s just a catharsis of sorts in the creative process. For the consumer, it’s just plain, cool fashion for the moment. There were neo-punk looks reminiscent of London’s punk scene in the early ‘80s, done with a twist, of course, in new fabrics and close-to-the body proportions to suit the MTV age. Goth styling was also more polished with Blade Runner net eye accessories and chains by the mile.
Next day was opening night, which was more exciting because of the fact that the show was by Jean-Paul Gaultier, one of our favorite designers who consistently creates beautiful, innovative clothes that never fail to astonish. And this collection was no exception. The ramp was covered in hay to evoke a dreamy, country wedding, inviting us to reminisce about the very first time we fell in love and perhaps to fall in love all over again. And fall in love we did, with ornate boleros and off-shoulder tops, with layers of lace and flowing flounces that had the whiff of romance and innocence known only to young lovers. Lily Cole, who starred in the original show in Paris, played the sweet, innocent girl who turned heads with her dreamy chiffon dresses. As a counterpoint, out came "Black Widows" in sharply tailored black trench coats and jackets softened by delicate floral prints and embellishments. It was pure passion and naiveté, executed with poetic sophistication.
G-Star has always lived up to its original concept – rough, rudimentary and raw. It has broadened its range, though, to include a newer, edgier image, appealing to all styles, trends and ages. For this season, authentic details and functionality remain hallmarks but there is an introduction of new silhouettes; new washing techniques like ghetto, housepainter, trash and dust washes; and embellishments like handcrafted studs. Short fitted jackets for men and ladies had a sleek, industrial look. There was a touch of schoolgirl whimsy with short shorts and a cropped jacket paired with white bobby socks and white men’s saddle shoes, topped off with an artist’s beret for unexpected French flair. For accessories, there were hip bags and body bags in denim and raw-finished leather belts.
Tangs, that venerable Singapore retail institution established in 1932, shows why it lasted for seven decades: Their collections are always up to the minute and reflect the fashion zeitgeist. For the festival show, their theme was the Secret Garden, so apt for the fresh looks of spring. There were white tube dresses with intrinsic ruched bodices and crochet inserts from Moonstone; short knitted cardigans in fuchsia paired with washed pink eyelet skirts from Martina Pink; satin pleated sleeveless dresses in white with the tiniest black polka dots, cinched on the waist with delicate black grosgrain ribbons from Studio; Blush pink, wrap front sleeveless silk blouses with cropped pants from Tamara; and the most sensuous white silk chiffon dresses with tiny rose appliquéd tops and multi- tiered skirts from Coat’s.
Britain is always the source of daring, experimental fashion. This was exemplified by HyBrit, a play on word that describes the multicultural influences, which only a true melting pot like London can capitalize on. Born in Taiwan, designer Liu Mei Hui is a devotee of Victorian lace and frills but this time slashed the sweetness out of salvaged garments and antique trimmings in what she calls "an ode to romance and a nod to the street." Anamika Khanna has her ethnic Indian background to keep her contemporary creations rooted in the beauty of ancient craft. She creates her own fabrics by dyeing, embroidery and other treatments, all in a riot of colors as rich as India itself. Jesse Noy has been recycling and reinventing clothes since she was seven years old so her collection does just that, giving a brand-new, true Brit rock twist to the classic, safe blue jeans and white T-shirt combo. You wouldn’t think that Robert Cary Williams, who served in the British Army, could come up with the most feminine clothes with the delicate beauty of vintage couture. But with a closer look, you realize that luxurious silk chiffon and soft leathers are literally shredded, pummeled and even shot at to create asymmetrical, jagged or embellished shapes, which his devotees describe as "beautiful with an undercurrent of violence." Some Madame Gres-looking gowns had cleverly worked-in pleats to create a Union Jack bodice and men’s jackets had backs shimmering with Union Jack beading.
Our last night was a most fitting farewell with the gala charity dinner and fashion show of Salvatore Ferragamo. No less than Salvatore Ferragamo Jr. and his cousin Angelica Visconti, heirs to the fashion empire, flew in to attend the event. In keeping with the nature theme of the spring/summer collection, the tent was transformed into a savannah setting with live birds from the Jurong Bird Park (all with bird flu vaccination certificates) like brilliant scarlet macaws, majestic snowy owls, vivid pink flamingos, and even a golden python. The stars were a pair of rare major Mitchell Cockatoos featured on the Salvatore Ferragamo prints. To make the dinner a more personal affair, the wines served were an exclusive selection brought from the Ferragamo family’s own vineyard. It was a marvelous setting to appreciate the wonderful collection of Ferragamo for the season: Serene, sophisticated natural shades contrasted with brilliant hues of raspberry and bright green, reminiscent of Ottoman villas and exotic bazaars. Brief, intricately constructed jackets came in elegant simplicity or intricately waved with decorative topstitching. Thin lapels were paired with open scooped necklines and details included clever cutouts. Dresses came in long, luscious lines fluidly falling to the sides or with soft dropped waistlines and full skirts. Softly tailored pleated nappas were more full with romantic filmy underskirt layers. There was a striking knee-length cardigan linking wavy suede panels of cream and black and a new summer blazer with graphic composites.
Just when the party was about to quietly fade into the savannah sunset, our guide and hosts reminded us that there was a party at Zouk, the newly renovated dance club. We first went backstage to congratulate Filipino supermodels Rocky Salumbides and Blu Freeland, who told us they have been staying in Singapore for the past month doing all the shows as well as some print campaigns. They were actually the star male models of the show, doing the finale right behind Lily Cole. We also met Lily Cole who turned out to have Filipino friends back home so was right at home with Rocky and Blu. After indulging us with some photos, she graciously invited us to join them at a party at Ministry of Sound. Another party? Sure, why not? But not without first catching the last hour of shopping on Orchard Road – had to get that gorgeous Gaultier jacket and other must-haves seen at the shows!