Discovering ‘Tatagaytaytay’

Leave it to my six-year-old, Luca, to turn our out-of-town weekend into tongue twister country. With feckless abandon and his winning smile, all throughout the week, he’d be asking, "Pops, when do we go to Tatagaytaytay?" or "How long to get to Tatagaytaytay?"; reducing my two older boys to uncontrolled fits of laughter. We didn’t know whether we were coming or going, heading to Tagaytay, Taytay, Rizal, or some undiscovered mythical town of Tatagay. And of course, the moment we entered the South Superhighway, his eyes were firmly fixed on his GameBoy, and we had to stop at both Shell and Petron stations (minutes from each other) to get drinks, chicheria, and more drinks and chicheria. While all the time, there already was a fully packed cooler in the back of the van.

Staying at the Discovery Country Suites, situated on the Tagaytay ridge, just left of the welcome rotunda; this was our weekend of male bonding, just me and the three boys. No educational agenda – other than "Look at the volcano!" or "Look out and enjoy nature" (to which, Luca looked up from his GameBoy, gazed out the window, and drolly muttered, "trees, plants, more trees, chickens" and went back to his GameBoy). This was slumming at its best; hours in the Jacuzzi Whirlpool, gorging on the excellent in-house cuisine of Verbena Restaurant, and, in the words of resident manager Sunshine Rocha, "picking out from the video library for a movie marathon," and catching the NBA playoff games and replays.

Country Suites is one of those secrets just begging to be discovered big-time. A large house on the ridge that has been converted to a Bed and Breakfast... and more; its seven really well-appointed themed rooms, ranging from 33 square meters to the Victorian-style master suite (Oxford) that clocks in at 72 square meters. All inspired by warm, cozy, country living, the other rooms are named Andalucia, St. Tropez, Ceylon, Nantucket, Siam and Nara.

The kitchen is run by executive chef David Pardo de Ayala who used to run the kitchen at Soleil. The restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and you don’t have to be residing at the Country Suites to enjoy the food at Verbena. My boys loved the Tomato and Mozzarella Pot starter; and "attacked" the Black Angus dish that serves two, and the lamb chops. During our merienda outing (from the room to the verandah), Quintin ordered the Gruyere and Dijon sandwich and favorably commented that he’d be having the cook back home whip up the same thing. Matteo and the Garlic Mushroom Carbonara had a serious bonding session, until he had to share with his brothers, who all rated the pasta four toques, or did they say tukos – hmmm, perhaps they were referring to the big lizard that serenaded us one night.

Breakfasts at Verbena come country-fied and capital-H hearty. If as Matteo proudly exclaimed, you rate breakfast as your favorite meal of the day, then you can’t go wrong at Country Suites/Verbena. Even if you want to go healthy, with fresh fruits and freshly baked bread, they will bring you baskets that just tantalize and overwhelm.

The whirlpool is in the back garden and provides one a wonderful view of Taal as one soaks to de-stress and relax. Of course, Luca decided it was a wonderful place to do laps and cannonball jumps – and we can now confirm that voices carry, and a wonderful echo can be achieved if you scream loud enough.  

While the published rack rates of the rooms start at P10,000, this is inclusive of complimentary country breakfasts, wine tasting with cheese and hors d’oeuvres in the evening, Wi-Fi access, daily newspapers and parking. One has use of the whirlpool, access to the mini-library and movie library, and the game room. (In Manila, one can call 683-8383.) Sunshine was relating how several multi-nationals have been booking the whole place for special seminars and team-building exercises; that it’s not just family bookings and honeymooners.

My only critical comment about Tagaytay would be that with all the quality resorts, houses, restaurants, eateries and hostels sprouting all over the place, it seems strange that there’s still a dearth of things to do throughout the day. Unless you play golf, and end up at the Tagaytay Highlands, your options are in fact still quite limited. And perhaps that’s one area the tourism-related associations should look into. Looking at Taal Volcano, horseback-riding, and dirt bikes – these put the amenities and activities as specific, and narrowed to a particular age and type of person. Steps should be taken to create more diversity.

The tranquil, scenic setting of Tagaytay conjures up a bucolic, magical atmosphere – only broken that weekend by my Luca’s incessant chattering. As Quintin and Matteo agreed, it always seemed like Luca wanted to make sure even the inhabitants of Taal island would hear his every word and kuwento; that "Tatagaytaytay" would never forget he, and my other two "Tasmanian Devils," were there.

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