Beyond Sake, Japanese Whisky

CEBU, Philippines — The earliest account of Japanese alcoholic beverages was written in the Kojiki (Japan’s first written history) compiled in the year 712. Sake is made from polished rice, water and koji mold (aspergillus oryzae) and was used for religious ceremonies and court festivals in those early days.

Japanese whisky is a more recent development (1870) and Yamazaki, the first Japanese distillery to produce commercial quantities of whiskey opened in 1924. Whisky (Americans spell it “whiskey”) is a distilled alcoholic beverage made from grains and aged in wooden casks. Japan’s whisky won international recognition in 2001 when Nikka (Yoichi 10-year old single malt) was recognized “Best of the Best” by Whiskey Magazine. In 2017, Suntory (Hibiki 21-year old) was selected as the best blended whisky in the world at the World Whisky Awards.

I was recently invited by another food writer, Michael Karlo, to experience the Art of Akashi at Weekend Restaurant, which is owned and operated by Chef Jan Rodriguez. Akashi Whisky is produced in Eigashima, Hyogo Prefecture, and is consumed just like regular whisky – drunk neat, on the rocks or in cocktails.

The food-and-drink adventure consisted of Five Whisky Expressions, Five Course Degustation and Five Signature Cocktails. We had to taste five whisky types, pair it with five dishes, and then followed by five kinds of cocktails. At that point, I thought it would be fun but, I realized, it was a total of 15 new food-and-drink nuances to dissect and that is, excuse me, very hard work.

The first drink was the White Oak Whisky, and it was paired with Beef Tendon Chips, Matcha Salt and Honey Butter, and then followed by a cocktail, the White Oak Sour. The White Oak had a fruity and oak smell with a taste of vanilla and malt. Very easy drink and this is the reason why it is a top seller. Beef tendon is used in Chinese cuisine for its spongy texture and this was my first time to eat it as cracklings. The cocktail, White Oak Sour, is a mix of whisky, ginger shrub and honey.

This was followed by Akashi Blue Whisky, paired with the Beet & Juniper Cured, Salmon, Cucumber, Hibiscus & Beet Gelee, Yuzu Dressing, Radish Sprout & Bonito Flakes, followed by the Old Blue cocktail. The third drink was the Akashi Single Malt paired with the Fish (Smoked Eel, Pears, Foie Gras, Sansho Pepper, Unagi Sauce) and closed with Whisky with Soda. The single malt was very friendly and hospitable with a smooth oaky taste. The smoked eel was lovely. It had complex subtleties from the combined elements of Foie Gras, Sansho Pepper and Unagi Sauce. It was indeed a great dish!

The fourth whisky was the Akashi Toji, and it was paired with Angus Beef Short Ribs (Smoked & Slow Roast), Whiskey Reduction, Shitake & Anchovy Cream Red Wine & Beet Root, followed by the Tokyo Toji cocktail. The Toji Blended had the smell and taste of vanilla and honey. I could also taste oak and dried fruits. The beef was delicious with very complex flavors from the shitake and anchovy cream. And that was it, my taste and smell had reached its maximum limit!

Closing the Art of Akashi was the Akashi Umeshu, a liqueur made with plum (sweet & sour, tasted like champoy) paired with Mizu Shingen Mochi (jelly-like, made with agar).