Chinese Cuisine Reinvented

CEBU, Philippines — Mainstream and online journalists were recently invited to taste the new Chinese dishes at the Ching Hai Restaurant of Jpark Island Resort & Waterpark. Chinese food was restructured at the restaurant, under the leadership of my good friend Malaysian-Chinese Chef Kenny Yong Tze Hin.

When I write about Chinese cuisine, I often recall two Filipino authors who have written on the subject. One is Maria Fadullon Rallos (“Lagda sa Pagpangluto”) who, in 1923, wrote that it was the desire of many families in Cebu and Manila to feast on Chinese food, such that 50 to 60 dishes were often served in a lauriat party given by the rich and influential Chinese.

And there is Doreen Fernandez, who wrote in “Sarap, Essays on Philippine Food” that Chinese dishes were given Spanish names to make the name and nature of the dishes understandable to the diners (back then the elite spoke Spanish). Pescado en Salsa Agrio Dulce (Sweet & Sour Fish), Aletas de Tiburon (Shark Fin Soup), Morisqueta Tostada (Fried Rice), Camaron Rebozado Dorado con Jamon (Golden Fried Shrimps with Ham), Torta de Cangrejo (Stuffed Crab Omelette) were often among the dishes written on the menu.

During the recent media luncheon at Jpark, the Appetizers served were Crispy Prawns with Mango in Sesame Dressing, Abalone Sio Mai, Scallop Taro Puff, Squid Ink Prawn Dumpling and Nan Yang Fragrant Salted Egg Squid. Soup was the Double-Boiled Health Mini Buddha Jump Over the Wall. I immediately noticed the dramatic changes in the food’s appearance and presentation and I have tasted many of Chef Kenny’s dishes the last 15 years. Crispy prawn is the Chinese version of the Prawn Cocktail. Chilled Mango Salad was topped with Crispy Fried Prawn. There is a saying that people eat with their eyes and the way the food is presented affects the way the food tastes.

Thirteen dishes were listed in the Main Course: Ma Po Tofu, Roasted Duck with Plum Sauce, Fragrant Coconut Curry Chicken, Wok Fried Beef Back Ribs in Black Pepper Sauce, Classical Sweet & Sour Pork, Roasted Shredded Chicken & Mango with Szechuan Spicy Dressing, Wok-Fried Shredded Beef with Leeks, Stewed Assorted Seafood (Thai Style), Wok Fried Shredded Potato & Pork (Old Beijing Style), “Baboy” Climb the Tree, Chef Kenny’s Special Fried Rice, Hunan “Shao Zi” Spicy Soup and Jpark Seafood Clay Pot.

Nearly all of us pointed to Ma Po Tofu as the best tasting dish during lunch.

The name Ma Po supposedly came from a couple selling tofu dishes in Sichuan province. Their patrons made a request that meat be added to tofu, and the wife called Ma Po (because her face was pock-marked by pox she got as a child) added bits of beef. From there Ma Po Tofu became one of the top ten most popular Chinese dishes.

Chef Kenny’s version of Ma Po Tofu is hard to beat. Ching Hai’s chefs make their own tofu, excuse me, with a secret ingredient – chicken eggs – to make the tofu delicious.

Desserts were the Deep Fried Custard Bun & Sweet Bean Paste Sesame Dumpling, Deep Fried Creamy Milk Cake, Chilled Mango Puree or Chilled Taro with Sago and Chilled Green Tea Almond Beancurd. After eating 19 dishes, my stomach took a rain check on the desserts and my brain concurred to live another day!