Hell’s Kitchen: the New Haven

CEBU, Philippines - Forget the old spots you used to haunt in Manhattan. The place to be is now Hell’s Kitchen, a thriving, throbbing center for food, fun, and just plain ole New Yawk flava.

What used to be an off-limits by night section of New York, traditionally shunned by decent folks, has now been, like other sections of the city, gentrified into respectability.   More professionals like bankers and doctors have joined traditional suspects like theater actors and playwrights trying to make it on Broadway (situated right beside the area) and moved in, creating their own livable space.   Even the distinguished Alvin Ailey dance company has relocated here, and created a beautiful space for future generations of dancers.

As a result: this is now a safe(r) space one can stroll in and enjoy even at late hours, and even, if you can stretch your imagination that far, a hip, happening place that any visitor must tick off when planning a trip to the city that never sleeps.

Paying a visit to Hell’s Kitchen isn’t too much of an effort with Broadway right beside it, catching a play or your favorite musical can be easily combined with making a reservation at the multitude of restaurants, cafes, diners and bars that dot the scene, starting from West 40th street and extending all the way to 57th.  Some claim that the Kitchen even stretches all the way to Columbus Circle now, but the jury is still out on that one.

No matter the real boundary, what’s important, if you find yourself in the Time Warner building or the Hearst stronghold, is that you’re pretty darn close to good food. Just mosey on to 9th Avenue and walk on down. Follow your nose, and the hungry crowd, and you can’t miss the kitchens. Hundreds of them.

What to choose. This is a matter for careful consideration. Funnily enough, Thai is the new Chinese. There’s a Thai restaurant in almost every block, and one could say that, given this proliferation, the New Yorkers have spoken.

For example, the Yum Yum Thai chain has three branches all within a two-block radius.   Then there’s Q2 Thai at 788 9th Avenue, Champen Thai on West 51st, and Pam Real on West 49th. V(IV) is a stunning looker on the same block on West 49th, and Ideal Thai comes next between 49th and 48th Streets.

If you can’t distinguish from among the siamese establishments serving pretty much the same menu, try the arresting Ember Room at 647 9th Avenue, even if just for its decor. With subtle lighting and a thousand metallic bells affixed to the ceiling, you are instantly surrounded by a hushed and relaxed atmosphere not ordinarily found in the city.   Food here is designed by celebrated chef Ian Chalermkittichai, and is modestly self-described as “traditional Thai with select international influences.”

But you don’t have to stick to Thai food. This city is known for its diversity, and Greek, Italian, Mexican, diner style, and of course, New York pizza is available within easy strolling distance. There’s a Three Boots pizza branch somewhere close for those in the know, and a mouthwatering burger joint called the Five Napkins Burger.  (You bet you’re going to go through five napkins just letting those juices in that sinful burger flow down your chin).

We tried our hand at Vegan food at Zen Palate, a tiny establishment that has been called the “meatless nirvana” by Zagat. We were informed by the manager that they served inexpensive food inside and a wider, pricier menu outdoors.   I ordered pretty simple fare of brown wild rice and fresh steamed vegetables, and was surprised at how delicious they tasted when they arrived. The web reviews, however, recommend more exotic courses like scallion pancakes and the spinach linguine salad, and desserts like banana bliss.

Strolling down the city one afternoon, I discovered a cool bagel joint over at 8th Avenue and 53rd St., “Pick a Bagel.” The blueberry bagel I tried was simply delicious, and I had to return the next morning to experiment with their raisin cinnamon bagel. One can also choose from other varieties like salt, onion, pumpernickel, garlic and egg, as well as the “whole wheat everything” bagel. There are more than ten varieties of cream cheese to choose from to pair with your bagel and your cup of joe, and a sandwich bar offers gleaming cuts of meat and shiny veggies, ready to supply other cravings.   Now I know where to have breakfast in this area (although it might be useful to note that there’s a Balducci’s quite close, for more mouthwatering croissants and pains au chocolat!)

Does dessert sound good? How about Schmakery’s, a cookie cafe of lip smacking proportions. Chocolate chip cookies and other varieties are sure to make you gain unwanted pounds. If you have a yearning for something healthier, however, then there are also yogurt bars available within slurping distance.

Of course, there’s the night life to consider. As plenty of young gay urban professional can’t afford the prohibitive prices of Greenwich Village and Chelsea, they’ve moved midtown and made their presence felt. Welcome, then, to “Hellsea”, as this area is fondly called by gay residents. The result is, more than a dozen gay bars dot the area, ranging from Flaming Saddle on West 53rd, where barechested cowboys skedaddle and grind on top of the bar, to Posh, where older natives regularly update each other on their urban lives.

A personal favorite is “Industry,” a great hangout with a fabulous skylight on the second floor, with just enough music to create an atmosphere and the right decibel level to let conversation flow while one enjoys the wine and the company. It’s a convivial place, with fierce attitudes left checked at the door, allowing for comfortable chitchat.

At the end of a long hard day walking the concrete jungle that is New York, having a great hotel to kick back and relax would be absolute heaven. Although, with the enticing food waiting just outside, you might just want to hold that thought. At least, until after just one last bite. (FREEMAN)