La Chaine des Rotiseurs: Baillage De Cebu 20th Anniversary

An organization called the Confrerie de la Chaine des Rotisseurs was established in the Philippines in 1972. It sounds French because it started in France in 1248 when King Saint Louis issued instructions to form an association for Les Oyeurs (Goose Roasters). In 1950, it was renamed La Chaine des Rotisseurs and a gourmet society emerged dedicated to the art of good cuisine, good wine and good company. A branch opened in 1993 in Cebu City called Bailli du Baillage de Cebu and a year later, I joined this prestigious organization and my life was never the same.

Rare are the occasions at that time when we have access to European cuisine here in Cebu. Even rarer are the events when fine dining is served and wearing formal clothing was reserved only for proms and sponsors for weddings. After 19 years with the La Chaine, your favorite food columnist is slightly more knowledgeable about the nuances of European dishes and the niceties of wine culture.

This year, 2013, the group committed to promote fine dining and Les Arts of the Table celebrated its 20th Anniversary with a Grand Diner Amical and Intronization at the Shangri-La’s Mactan Island Resort & Spa. Theme for the formal dinner was “Farm to Table”, a celebration of locally sourced ingredients, challenging the creativity of the Executive Chef, Joris Rycken.

First course was the Tataki of Gen San Tuna, Tauge and Seaweed Salad, Soy Citrus and this was paired with Kim Crawford Pinot Noir 2011, Marlborough, New Zealand. Tataki is a Japanese method of preparing fish, which is seared very briefly, marinated in vinegar and seasoned with ginger. Tauge are sprouted mung beans and this delivers a crunchy texture to the salad.

Soup was the 6 Hour Braised Oxtail Soup, Annatto scented egg royal. It really takes a long time to cook this dish, slowly extracting all the juices from the skin, muscles and ligaments from the tail. Annatto or achiote imparts a golden color and a sweet and peppery taste. The net effect, excuse me, makes this dish among the top five soups served during a La Chaine dinner the last 20 years. The society hosts an average of five dinners a year or a total of 100 dinners for the last 20 years and I do remember that I was present in nearly all the dinners except one because the flu hit me very badly that day.

The third course was the Agnolotti of Water spinach & Carabao Cheese, with Cherry tomato confit and poultry veloute. An agnolotti is a type of ravioli made in Piedmont, Italy and water spinach is just a nice English name for our humble kangkong. The dish was paired with an Italian wine, Piccini Chianti Riserva 2009, Tuscany.

Sorbet was the Granitee of Calamansi and Coconut, with a twist, halo-halo, providing a colorful approach and a crunchy texture from the toasted glutinous rice.

Main course was the Farmed Ostrich loin with spiced jus, roasted pumpkin mousseline and honey thyme. There were initial apprehensions from the Board during the food tasting because ostrich meat could be too exotic for the members. Executive Chef Joris Rycken, however insisted and guaranteed that his creation will be to the satisfaction of this gourmet society. Paired with the Beringer Vineyards Zinfandel Clear Lake 2007, California, USA, it was!

Dessert was the Tablea & Mango Curd Tart, homemade chocolate liquor and passion sherbet.

Congratulations and many thanks to the management and staff of Shangri-La’s Mactan led by GM Juergen Doerr and Executive Chef Joris Rycken for making the 20th anniversary of La Chaine de Rotisseurs a truly memorable one. [email protected]