Cebu's Trattoria Tavolata

CEBU, Philippines - Chef Jason Hyatt is at it again – offering a facet of his passion to Cebu's discriminating crowd.   First was Abaca Boutique Resort + Restaurant in Mactan Island which earned a Conde Nast commendation; he later came to Cebu City for MAYA Mexican Restaurant and Tequila Lounge at the Crossroads. As an afterthought, he opened a hole-in-the-wall New York style lunch venue – A Café – a stone's throw away from Maya. Despite initial raised eyebrows, these Hyatt undertakings, under The Abaca Group, have turned out to be highly successful ventures!

This time, Jason gives us TAVOLATA: la trattoria di abaca. Just like in MAYA, Hyatt never claims this to be a truly authentic Italian restaurant, "but inspired by the traditional Italian trattoria." The secret of The Abaca Group of Restaurants is its passion for topnotch ingredients flown in from the sources, taking off from traditional recipes through creative techniques and using simple culinary ways in coming up with a dish.

For TAVOLATA, they pride themselves with their pasta produced daily with 100 percent semolina flour from Italy, and pressed through a bronze die extruder - a true pasta lover's delectation. Their pizza dough, on the other hand, is fermented for three days and purely hand-tossed for that thin, crispy yet chewy distinction. Homemade toppings are Italian spiced chicken, clams & octopus with scamorza, pancetta, and Calabrian hot sausage.

When I visited during the first week of the soft opening, I was surprised that the low-key venue was full! (The lighted resto's name is just a line against a wall of seemingly black tinted glass.) There was a family with little children at one table, dating couples of varying ages at the other tables. Even the loft was full…and it was a Tuesday!

I loved their Tomato & Basil bruschetta, but beware that each order is good for at least two persons. Trying to be wise, I next opted for the Mozzarella Pizza, to share - tomatoes, basil, mozzarella and fior di latte. However, the three of us at table could not finish the whole pizza, especially since I ordered Clam Linguine - "al dente" as best I came across since Venice, with a generous portion of clams. My companions ordered Angus T-bone for a shared entrée, aside from their pasta dish. Naturally, we had doggy bags when we left.

My second time was by Friday, early evening, for my shoot. Again, the place was full. And I came across some well known personalities. I ordered the Chicken Liver & Guanciale bruschetta and ran it by my photographer Reynan. We both loved this!

I had been curious about the Eggplant Parmesan appetizer, and I was not disappointed. This is good!

For our entrée, I ordered Porchetta - slow roasted pork belly with risotto Milanese and gremolata. Ah, I got it right, this time. The portion was just enough for two! That means, we demolished the dish.

The following Monday, I reserved a table for two…my despedida for a girlfriend going to the U.S. We started with Culatello – shaved Parma ham, reggiano parmesan and crostini. Just like in my previous visits, I accompanied dinner with a glass of their full-bodied red house wine and we people-watched as there was the usual dynamic social scene.

Then I opted for the Spaghetti a la Chitarra Marinara – pasta with tomato, garlic and basil, while Tess tried the Herb Crusted Chicken Parmesan – with marinara, spicy broccoli and mozzarella. Well, we had doggy bags again!

Dessert during the soft opening period is a choice of Chocolate Torte - 70% dark chocolate, candied orange and rum Anglaise; and Apple Crostada – slow roasted apples, handcrafted crust and cinnamon. I tried both and found the torte so rich and fragrant. The mini apple pie – my favorite dessert, actually – melted in my mouth!

As for the ambiance, it is a redux of the traditional trattoria with its bodega feel, but the lighting fixtures and wall finishes are far too classy…and yet, the prices are not up-market at all. No wonder the yuppies are seen in this trendy chic resto with the delectable menu!

TAVOLATA is on soft opening from Monday to Sunday from 6:00 PM with last seating at 10:30 PM. For reservations of inquiries, call 505.6211. Also visit http://theabacagroup.com. (FREEMAN)