Segovia: Light of Castille

CEBU, Philippines - Once upon a time, there was a beautiful princess who was supossed to marry an evil tyrant to unite the kingdoms in ancient Spain. Her father had arranged the marriage but she loved a poor young shepherd. The legend said that on the eve of the wedding, the damsel run away from her castle to meet her lover, but her father put the boy in the dungeon. The princess wept disconsolately alone in the mountains of Segovia. The full moon comforted the sad girl and made a deal with her, so she could be with her love forever. The princess fell asleep and never woke up. The next morning, a silhouette of a sleeping woman formed the Segovia Mountains. They say that the shepherd boy was always grazing his sheep in these parts, dreaming of Sleeping Beauty's awakening. These mountains are called Mujer Dormida (Sleeping Lady) or Sierra de Mujer Muerta (Dead Lady's Mountain).

Segovia is not just a fairy tale but can be our enchanted secret trip, and I promise you that you will still believe. Close your luggage and follow me...

Remember that we were already in Madrid, so we can´t miss the nearby places. I want to show you that just an hour from Madrid, in Castilla y León province, Segovia is one of our first must-see places and one of the prettiest monument-filled cities in Spain. You can still come back to your Madrid hotel, or spend one night in the beautiful Segovia Parador. I must confess that I bring you to Segovia, not only because half of my blood is Segoviana, but also because UNESCO declared the city as a World Heritage Site since 1981. Segovia is amazingly medieval: lovely narrow streets, the extant Roman aqueducts (Acueducto), and its mixture of Roman, Muslim, Jewish and Christian cultures that inspired the great Spanish poet Antonio Machado to declare Segovia as "Light of Castille".

But not everything is mysticism and poetry, so let´s be practical. The streets are beautiful, but very uncomfortable to walk on because they are made of cobblestones and history has never been compatible with high-heels. Be prepared with comfortable shoes, as I suggested last July when I made a trip to Segovia with one of my favorite Cebu families: Christine and Jun Pelaez, their son Sebastian and Lexie, their beautiful daughter. I was also with my husband Javier, my mother Esmeralda Marugán (a journalist, tv-host and pure Segoviana) and my father-in-law, Professor Luis Jañez. We had a wonderful day-trip that was my inspiration for to this article.

The Aqueduct

The Acueducto (aqueduct) is the emblem of the city and is located right in the middle of town. It was constructed by the Romans between the 1st and 2nd centuries. Its purpose was transporting water from the Acebeda River to the city. The water was transported a total of 19 km (11 miles), first through an underground conduction and later through the 166 arches that compose the monument. At the top of the aqueduct, there is a statue of the Virgin of Fuencisla, patron of the city, protecting the province. The entire aqueduct was constructed without mortar or cement. A complicated study of equilibrium forces makes the ashlars, or stones that compose each of the arches, stay standing upright. This magical structure is where you make a wish as soon as you touch one of its stones.

Cathedral of Segovia

Right on the highest point of the city stands the majestic Cathedral of Segovia. Built between 1525 and 1577, this is the last Gothic temple of the 16th century. Often referred to as the "Lady of Cathedrals", it is characterized by its unique floor layout surrounded by radial chapels and a semicircular sanctuary. The three principal entrances to the cathedral also stand out: the west main entrance of "Puerta del Perdón", with an image of the Immaculate Virgin, southern entrance "Puerta de San Geroteo" (first bishop of Segovia), the northern entrance "Puerta de San Frutos" (patron of Segovia). Masses on Sunday combine tradition and spirituality and will transport you to the Renaissance era. Segovia is a modernized city with a deep respect for tradition.

The Alcazar

This tour must include the Alcázar of Segovia, a medieval fortress, and the most precious residence of the monarchs of Castille. This inspired the castle in the Disney movie "Sleeping Beauty" because from that top place you can see perfectly the full mountains that created the legend. It's time to feel like a real princess or king, and come up with enough courage to climb the 156 steps that will take you to the the tower of this wonderful "enchanted castle". The origins of the building are uncertain and though there is evidence of Roman remains, the oldest testimony is from the 7th century. Its current appearance is, in great part, the reconstruction after a fire in 1862.

I am sure after visiting all these beautiful places you must be starving, specially because in Spain lunch starts at 2 pm. Get ready to taste the most delicious roasted suckling pig in the Mesón José María. It is said that in the olden times, some Spanish from Segovia brought their traditional love for cooking pigs to The Philippines. If it is true, then the lechon comes from the Segovian cochinillo.

Piglets are put in the oven with just water and a little salt in low heat, so they are so soft and juicy and can be cut with a plate, as tradition dictates. The restaurant also has one of the best Spanish wineries.

It is globally known that travel to Segovia is a treat for the palate and a gourmet experience. The most famous innkeepers of the country are there to continue this gastronomic legend. It is a pleasure for me to choose the best Segovian restaurant called Mesón de José María.

Granja de San Ildefonso

After our lunch, and a good siesta, maybe in the Parrador de Segovia, I would take you to the Granja, one of the most romantic and beautiful gardens and palaces of Europe, with fabolus fountains that will transport you to heaven (only working during summer).

The origins of this royal site date back to 1450, when King Enrique IV of Castille, built a chapel dedicated to San Ildefonso (Archbishop). It is said that the king's great devotion to San Ildefonso was due to his being saved from grave danger in one of his hunting trips in the mountains of Valsaín. In 1477, Catholic monarchs Isabel and Fernando donated the chapel and farm grounds adjacent to the monastery of El Parral.

More than 200 years after the royal donation, Philip V came to the forests in one of his visits to the Palace of Valsaín, and conceived the idea of building a palace there, as his grandfather Louis XIV did in Versailles (Paris, France).

We could say that like the mythology of Apollo, Versailles is dedicated to the Sun, the Farm is dedicated to Diana, who represents the moon and I think my name comes from this magical place.

How to go to Segovia from Madrid?

You can go by bus on a tour, but you can also rent a car. It is less than an hour from Madrid and usually they have a GPS that will guide you. But I would not suggest you to do it, because it is almost impossible to park in the center of Segovia.

By train, there is a super fast one that arrives there from Madrid in just 12 minutes, but let me tell you that it costs much more than the others that arrive there in 45 minutes.

Buses from Madrid can bring you to the Acueducto. You can also arrange with a taxi a set price and you will be there in an hour. This may not be expensive if you are more than 3.

So, make your choice and don´t forget to visit the Segovia website, that will really help you in your visit. (www.segoviaturismo.es)

The best way to visit Segovia would be with a small organized tour that will let you choose your restaurant and feel the Segovian hospitality. Don´t worry if you get lost walking, feel free to retrace step by step, but as I told you before, bring comfortable but cute shoes, winter clothes (it is cold even in summer), not too casual, because you are eating in cool restaurants and may be meeting your favorite celebrity. So, take your camera and make sure you have enough cash to buy some souvenirs, (They do not usually accept credit cards in the tourist areas). (FREEMAN)