IN PRAISE OF THE BOLINAO: Nutrition Month Special

CEBU, Philippines - We have overfished our waters in certain areas, have dynamited at sea and caused severe coral destruction where ours would have been an underwater heritage site. We are dumping toxic waste materials into our waters, heedless of what a bleak future we leave for our children and our children's children to inherit.

Ironic that we import fish to meet our daily needs when Philippine waters should have been teeming with fish varieties, as well as other marine cornucopia for human consumption. Sad to note that the Filipino staple has been influenced by globalization -- no longer fish and rice, but currently hamburger and coke or fried chicken and rice. Premium variety of fish has become more expensive than pork or fowl.

In line with the observance of National Nutrition Month, let us re-assess our options and rediscover the healthy value of our native ingredients, the wealth of local culinary art, as well as the economics of cooking what is available in the nearest wet market.

Let us put the bolinao at centerstage. We have relegated this fish variety to the marginal spaces of our culinary undertakings because -- well -- it is not as available as before. Fish vendors often dupe not so experienced buyers, passing off turnos as the more flavorful bolinao.  Both look so similar that one has to watch out for color and hardness. The former is much darker and hard to the touch; the latter is white and fleshy soft when touched. When cooked, turnos turn stiff while bolinao retains its softness.

Eating bolinao is a protein-rich diet, full of minerals. Specially when the dish allows you to take it bones and all. Hence, the best way to enjoy the flavorful bolinao is in a Cebuano soup known as tinola. Just throw in a clump of lemon grass with the fish, then the verdant leaves of this panacea called kamunggay just as the water is boiling. Almost immediately take out of the heat and serve, for best nutritive intake.

Another favorite of mine is bolinao patties: mold patty with a paste of whipped egg and corn starch. Stir fry over high heat until brown and crunchy. Take off excess oil by placing patties on paper napkin before serving. Delicious!

Who can forget our grandmother's comfort food -- inun-onan nga bolinao? Despite all the gourmet cuisines from all over the world, our tongue still craves for the flavors of our youth. Thus, we hanker for bolinao wrapped in light green colis leaves, then stewed slowly in pure coconut vinegar, with lots of native garlic, chunks of ginger and maybe some slices of bitter melon (ampalaya), okra, or eggplant (aubergine) to boost taste.

The bolinao is often referred to as dilis in most menus and offered as starters. Be it caramelized, to become exotic in Japanese/Korean restaurants, or dredged and served with a number of sweet or spicy dips.

For however it is prepared, the lowly bolinao is really a tasty fish variety that is supposedly abundant hereabouts and therefore affordable to Cebuanos.

Let us go back to our traditional dishes, eat healthy and within our means.