L'Art de la Table with Happy Living

CEBU, Philippines - Early this month, I was favored with an invitation from my friend Marlene Moreno-Mondoñedo of The Tinder Box in Banilad, for a sit-down 8-course gourmet dinner. She invited Happy Living Wines to pair their best California vintages with the haute cuisine dishes prepared by her niece – top rated Manila private party Chef Farah Tolentino-Ylagan – and catering partner (pastry) Chef Chris Bautista. Both are probably the best French Cuisine chefs in the country today, trained according to the centuries-old French culinary tradition of L’Art de la Table.

Chef Farah graduated from the best French schools, like Ecole Superieure de Cuisine Francaise & Centre Europeen de Management Hotelier International (formerly Pierre Cardin’s l’Institut Maxim’s) with an impressive work experience at such haute-haute venues like Pavillion Ledoyen, the 3-Michelin-star restaurant at the Place de la Concorde in Paris. While Escoffier honed Chef Chris at the Ritz in Paris (where the 2-Mechelin-star L’Espadon is located). He is also a wine connoissuer, and the Executive Chef of Gourdo’s since 2004.

L’Art de la Table is not only the best food, but also the perfect confluence of the venue, the diners, the table settings, the linens, the flowers as centerpieces and even entertainment to complete the dining pleasure.

That evening, a select group of Cebuano gourmets was first treated to hors d’ouvres: touts p’tits consisting of tomato risotto chorizo balls (lovely crunch!), cornets of salmon tartare(crunchy cornet w/a delightful “pop” of the golden caviar) and red onion crème fraiche. Paired with the sweet Beringer Sparkling White Zinfandel.

When we were seated came lightly Poached Oysters in 3 Ways: cold with Pommery mustard cream gelee; with shallot and mignonette granita (I liked this!); with white wine, saffron sauce and caviar. Served with loose pearls from the opera length necklace of Chef Farah’s mother, former Ambassador to France (in Paris) Aurora Navarro Tolentino. Paired with Schramsberg Mirabelle Brut, a California vintage that can be at par with champagne. (Favorite among the diners.)

What can one say with foie gras as prepared by Chef Fara of the Le Canard d’Or fame? It is top class duck liver flan with lardon fume (the smoked bacon added zest) and onion marmalade in light chestnut cream sauce. I found the rich dish perfectly matched with the sweet and fragrant Nobility Late Harvest Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2006. (The diners ordered this for take home!)

Egg lovers at my table swore to the perfection of the next delectation: Coddled Egg. It is egg steamed just so in truffle brown butter, served with asparagus, prosciutto and chips. Paired with, according to Kathy Yao-Santos of Happy Living, the #1 white wine in the market: Beringer Sbragia Chardonnay 2006 Napa Valley Limited Release. (Discriminating diners snatched available bottles that night!)

As the first entrée, Palawan Lobster with Clams a la Mariniere was an eye candy. Served with grilled shiitake mushroom confit and edamame, one could not help but pause to savor the colorful sight of the green edamame and some orange and reds. Exquisite presentation! And quite delicious to the taste buds. Paired perfectly with Ferrari-Carano Fume Blanc 2009 Sonoma County.

Breather was a delightful Green Apple & Key Lime Sorbet, garnished with a cherry-like apple, to cleanse our palates for the next entrée – US Angus Beef: seared rib-eye flavored with aromatic roasted garlic, with potato puree and a soy balsamic glaze that sealed off the flavor. Paired with my favorite wine that night: Beringer Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Napa Valley.

The sweet & fragrant Nobility Late Harvest made a comeback for the desserts: Crème Cuite (creamy confection) with espresso granita and pistachio brittle, surrounded by freshly roasted coffee beans – heady to the senses of a coffee fanatic! Then, Stilton, the best blue cheese, with dried figs that were freshly tender by having been poached in Pinot Noir, walnut and orange blossom honey.

Of course we gave the extraordinary chefs a hearty applause, together with their kitchen brigade, after that memorable repast. The diners requested priority seats in the next The Tinder Box Gourmet Dinner. Tres bien, jusqu’alors! (FREEMAN)