A Taste Of Organic Cuisine

In a country like ours, there are plenty of opportunities to eat organic food; just visit your nearest barrio and you have fruits and vegetables that have never seen artificial fertilizers or conventional pesticides and are grown in soil free from contamination from human or industrial waste. Neither are these plants genetically modified!

If meat is available, chances are they are grown without antibiotics or growth hormones. If consumed immediately, there is no need for artificial food additives, food irradiation or chemicals as preservatives. Yes, my beloved readers, such is the definition of “organic food” under the standards adopted by the U.S. Department of Agriculture in 2000.

However, your favorite food columnist never traveled far for an “Evening of Organic Flavors”; guest na pud of the International Culinary Arts Academy Cebu (in front of USC-Girls High, email: [email protected], phone 256-0461, 418-2988) for the Final Culminating Dinner Event of the Two Year Culinary Arts Chefs Programme last November 14. Joining me at the dinner table were charming ladies from Plantation Bay, F&B Manager Rocel Gonzaga and Ms. Mia Santiago; dashing gentlemen from Marriott Hotel, F&B Manager Helbert Villarosa and Harry Dale Seno; and one of my favorite chefs, Mayor Christian Purisima.

With a glass of Canti, Chardonnay-Pinot Grigio, Italia, the first course was the organic vegetable salad, apple-wood smoked sea bass and Bloody Mary sauce, celery root puree, crispy fish skin and Russian Ossietra caviar. This was followed by the organic chicken consommé and organic chicken breast with porcini sabayon and beet tapioca pearls. The two dishes were delicious and when consumed with the soup, simply heavenly.

 Grilled organic pork belly and Arugula Salad came next and this was paired with the Ramirana, Chardonnay 2007 Chile. The rich peppery taste of the greens effectively neutralized any greasiness left in the pork and with the wine, the taste is definitely luxuriant.

The next dish showed the playful antics of Chef Jeremy Young, Dean ICAA Cebu: Spicy chocolate sorbet with Jalapeño. The latter are chili peppers that originate from Mexico and imagine cold chocolate that is chili hot!

The Farm Way Chèvre, a Rack of Organic Goat with Preserved Lemon Butter and Potato Mushroom Pavé was then served, paired with the TMV White, South Africa 2006. The goat meat was extra delicious and together with the accompanying veggie Pavé, this will be etched in my memory cells as one of the 10 best dishes that I have had in this culinary school. 

The next dish had a rather long name: Organic Pork Dou, Organic “crispy pork leg “on a bed of cabbage, bacon and mushroom slaw served with an espresso and lager barbecue sauce and polenta frita and Organic pork loin with creamy cheese grits, apricot and mustard sauce served with San Miguel Cerveza Negra. This kind of pairing of beer and pork (3 types of wines were served earlier) produces a combined taste sensation that seems strange yet surprisingly appetizing.

I love duck dishes and was happy with the appearance of the Grilled organic duck consommé and Organic duck breast with farro & organic pancetta. Farro is the Italian name for Emmer wheat while pancetta is pork belly which has been salted, spiced and dried. The combination of two types of meats and a carbohydrate is yummy. Personally I would prefer a white wine to accompany the dish rather than the Port wine.

After palates were refreshed with the Lime Mint Sorbet, I was ready for the dessert: Dessert Sampler with three types of Verrine (confection, originally from France, made by layering ingredients in a small glass), the Verrine apple basil chibouste, Verrine rote grutze and mascarpone and the Verrine chocolate frost. This is one dessert that is to be eaten very slowly; with each bite, you think of the hours of preparation that went into the dish and with each sip of the Porto Messias, imagine the months of training that transformed mere mortals into culinary masters.

Such can only be achieved with an investment of a child’s education in a culinary school like the ICAA Cebu with facilities that are comparable to world standards, local and international linkages and chefs who can not only cook but also able to impart their talent to their students.