As we docked in the municipality of Dapa, a huge and hard-not-to-notice tarpaulin read: Welcome to Siargao! Your gateway to adventure. And indeed, the place sure does live up to that statement!
The adventure began after a 12-hour boat ride to Surigao City. We arrived very early in the morning and hurried to a nearby wharf to catch a ferry to the island only to find out that the next schedule was not until noon. That gave me and my partner four hours to spare for breakfast in a carenderia along the wharf’s highway. Food sounded good before another cross-water trip. And while waiting, my curiosity got me to question local passengers how long the ride will be. I learned it was two or two-and-a-half hours tops. “Oh, it’s not that far,” I said to myself. I can manage that long on board a pump-boat. My excitement surged!
At around three-thirty in the afternoon (yeah, you could just imagine my reaction), we reached the island with our welcoming committee nowhere in sight. Yes, this is getting more and more exciting. And Dapa was just our gateway. We still have to motor our way to another town. But hey, I’m in the mood for adventure, right? Several text messages and calls later, we were on the move.
Work and Leisure. But before we proceed, let me tell you the circumstances that led to my visit to this fabled island. It was a surprise gig that I readily accepted without second thought. The organizers of the first ever Miss Siargao got in touch with me and asked if I could host the pageant, which is one of the highlights of the weeklong International Game Fishing Competition. However, the catch was that I have to take the next ship out of Cebu at seven that evening. I grabbed the opportunity.
So here we are, on board a habal-habal (passenger motorbike) towards the host municipality snaking through rugged terrain and rollercoaster in between hills and mountains passing through several communities. Whew! Forty-five minutes later, after a thrilling yet scenic ride, we arrived at the eastern town of Pilar just right before sunset. Our host was finally there to meet us in their quite impressive (for a small town) gymnasium just in time for rehearsals. Perfect timing!
After a very long day of jaunt, I was reeling for a refreshing cold shower, really badly. I couldn’t wait to get to the hotel and settle before dinner. You see, hosting an event of this magnitude for the first time, Pilar currently does not have enough facilities to welcome tourists but it sure does have all the resources and potential. I know it’s going to be a bigger event next year.
Anyway, back to my shower. ‘Well, there goes my shower’ I thought. Having used to travel with all the pampering and all the necessities most especially accommodations mapped out, this was an unexpected twist to the trip. Instead, as a thoughtful alternative, the organizing committee had private citizens adopt a guest in their household. It was such a great idea, I should say. If there’s anything I like about visiting a new place, is adding local color to my experience. Who could complain? It’s like having a home away from home, literally. (My deepest gratitude to Elias Brina and his family for their hospitality, to the Pilar’s local government and special thanks to Ms. Donna “Tete” Tiu.)
On my “official” first day, Pilar was in total swing very early in the morning. No less than Her Excellency Gloria Arroyo paid a visit to formally open the affair. I was glad I slept the morning through (thanks for a late night along the town’s Boulevard). I really didn’t want to be caught up in the middle of the hullabaloo. Besides, I needed my beauty rest in preparation for the night’s pageant - which by the way was a roaring success!
The Big Kahuna. Two days of experiencing what our host town has to offer, I still had that one destination in sight and so did my partner. Exactly! The famous surfs! Hey, I’m already in the island, might as well make the most out of it and witness the country’s newest source of pride gaining us further éclat in the international surfing community. But there’s just one hitch, it would mean enduring a round trip in the same route and a little further southeast, on the same mode of transport.
At this point, it didn’t really matter anymore. I was transfixed with the destination.
Sixty minutes later, we arrived at General Luna’s famous Cloud Nine. Named after that ferocious break, Cloud 9 is the town’s center of surfing activity. I’m no wave rider but watching the ocean constantly making its coils was pretty astonishing. This is a phenomenon that you once thought only existed in Hawaii, Australia or California but witnessing it our own country just puts you in awe and fascination. It’s no wonder surfing has become a current, not just recreation, but sport among Filipinos. (Surfing season is within the months of August and November. The Siargao Cup happens every September while an international competition is also set every October.)
In addition to its major attraction, Cloud Nine is home to white sand beaches and pellucid waters of the open Pacific. Thus, along its coast, a number of resorts are always ready to accommodate wave enthusiasts or just the regular beach bum. I guess this is one reason why I fell in love with the place, in just one afternoon, I found a diversity of things to do. If you can’t surf, laze on the sand and bask under the sun, lounge by the beach with something to read, watch busy bodies, binge on food in nearby diners or probably walk the neighborhood and talk to the townsfolk or other tourists. I did all of that!
Well, the day has to end. And the return to Pilar was uneventful. Then overnight, I was back in Cebu. Back home with a digital camera full of fun-filled memories and of course the intention of making a return. Only this time I’m flying!