Revitalizing the Philippine cacao industry

MANILA, Philippines - Like-minded industry players, concerned government agencies, NGOs and chefs recently gathered to better understand and address the issues affecting both the local and international cacao and chocolate-making industries.

Spearheaded by the country’s premier flagship educational institution for world-class professional culinary studies, the Center for Culinary Arts (CCA, Manila), the recent forum titled, “The 6 Hot Topics That Really Melt Chocolate,” focused on the complex challenges that the cacao and chocolate industries are and will be facing in the coming years. 

Held at Lucia Ristorante in Hotel Celeste, Makati City, the recent seminar is one of the four short courses offered under the “The Chocolate Business as a Social Enterprise” expert training series which CCA, Manila has collaborated with Blyss, a global chocolate business that makes “single bean virgin chocolate.” Social entrepreneur, Blyss chocolate founder Alyssa Jade McDonald-Bartl imparted a profound learning experience via her real-world examples and global perspectives about the chocolate industry.

Issues and solutions

One of the complex challenges seen to beset the cacao industry is the shortage of cacao by year 2020. In her talk, McDonald-Bartl mentioned the demand for chocolate from emerging markets like India and China is predicted to rise by 30 percent.

“Since the early 1900s, there is increased demand of about three percent year-on-year. But keeping pace with the growing global demand is proving to be no easy task. Without empowering and investing on small-scale farmers, the chocolate industry – from the world’s biggest chocolate makers to the new players – will struggle to provide supply to meet the demand,” she said.

Without investing on farmers, many, specifically the next-generation cacao growers, will be forced to leave the industry to seek other profitable businesses.

“No farmers, no cacao, and no cacao beans mean no chocolate bars. We need to act now,” McDonald-Bartl stressed.

The variety and production of high quality cacao beans are also raised. McDonald-Bartl pointed out that like wine, cacao exhibits its own unique characteristics in flavor caused by the beans’ region of origin. “This and other post-harvest factors influence the flavor and overall outcome of the product,” she said.

Phl  is the next top cacao supplier

Revisiting history, cacao, a highly prized raw material for many cocoa products like butter, powder, chocolate confectionery and liquor, is a crop produce of the Philippines since the 1670s. With climactic and soil conditions perfect for cacao cultivation, not to mention a ready global market, the country’s potential stands to benefit many growers, retailers and chocolate makers.

While the country is very much ready, McDonald-Bartl  said it needs to help first the Filipino planters in order to put its name back on the world cacao map. Current data show that 70 percent of the world’s cacao comes from Africa.

“It is perhaps unknown to the rest of the world but the Philippines is the home of the Mesoamerican Criollo. I think the country needs to highlight this unique element, since there is no original bean left in Mexico,” McDonald-Bartl disclosed.

The sweet, acid notes that are native here, she said, can be developed for future cuisine. “A stronger connection between farmers and chefs is needed, to put together the whole story to the map,” she noted further.

One such approach is through culinary business. Chefs, as influencers, can help farmers and chocolate makers develop cacao into products with unique offerings, McDonald-Bartl stressed. “Extend the brand experience by connecting with the culinary community. Talk their language; teach them the importance of cultural preservation, of creating a menu strategy like a limited edition signature series.“

“It’s about transparency and great quality. You now have already Malagos, Kablon, Theo & Philo, and Magdalena, and amazing farmers who would dedicate heirloom seeds; they are going to be the foundation. But they need support to maintain the quality standards and prices,” McDonald-Bartl said.

For more information about the CCA Master Chocolate Connoisseur Certificate Program, you may email [email protected] or call 0917-7337413 or (02) 426-4831.