RP's tastiest, most expensive fish on verge of extinction

This fish species can cost as much as P4,000 per kilo.

It’s because the lobed river mullet, popularly known locally as ludong and scientifically named Centraeus plicatilis, is rare and elusive.

Ludong habituates the deep pools of Addalem River in Aglipay, Quirino, and the rapids of Didimpit in Laoab, Jones, Isabela.

The species is catadromous (it lives in fresh water and goes to sea to spawn), said Evelyn C. Amo, research division head of the Bureau of Fisheries and Aquatic Resources (BFAR) in Cagayan Valley.

Two kilometers off the coasts of Aparri and Babuyan Channel in Cagayan, the mullets head for the salt waters to spawn from October to December (flood and typhoon season). After spawning, they return to upstream ponds.

The Ludong migrate during December, January, and February, which coincides with the “ipon-run phenomenon” (an occurrence wherein different species of fish fry head upstream).

“After the ludong has undergone downstream migration, it can be caught in Cagayan River and tributaries,” said Ame, as reported by Rita T. dela Cruz of the Bureau of Agriculture Research (BAR).

Amo’s study started in October 2007 and is expected to be completed this year, the project aims to study the productive biology and conditions affecting the population dynamics of ludong to sustain its production and develop strategies geared toward its conservation and protection.

Amo said ludong is herbivorous, feeding only on the filamentous algae that live on rocks and boulders in and near river rapids.

A mature fish weighs from 0.25 kg to two kilograms and costs from P3,500 to P4,000 per kilo, making it the most expensive fish in the country because of its seasonality and difficulty in catching.

It has a unique delicious taste and peculiar aroma when cooked.

“Ludong is close to being an endangered species. In fact, information gathered from fish vendors in Cagayan showed that the volume of ludong catch has been tremendously decreasing annually,” wrote dela Cruz.

The sizes of ludong being caught have also been getting smaller.

BFAR reported that a ludong catch in 1998 weighed as much as 2.4 kg but the catch in 2001 had gone down to 0.25 kg per piece. Moreover, no ludong was reported caught in 2002 and 2003, indicating its declining population.

Thus, BFAR issued Fisheries Administrative Order (FAO) No. 31, which prohibits the capture, purchase, sale, preparation, and serving of ludong for private or public consumption during its seasonal migration (October to January).

In 2006, BFAR launched “Oplan Sagip Ludong”.

At present, the only live ludong in captivity is at the BFAR research center in Dagupan City, Pangasinan, caught five years ago in the Cagayan River.

The 1.5-kg fish is now the subject of study by BFAR researchers.

Amo recommended that breeding of ludong in captivity be studied to exploit its market potential and sustain production and supply throughout the year.