In the city named Silay

CEBU, Philippines — It is a rare experience to be able to walk back in time. Rare maybe, but definitely possible. It does not even have to involve a magic spell.

There are places to visit in the Philippines where it can happen. In the Ilocos region, there’s Vigan. In Negros Occidental, there’s Silay.

Silay is touted to be a heritage city. The place retains beautiful remnants of glory days past –beautifully preserved ancestral homes and buildings – all exuding classic artistry. The exquisite architecture of the structures conveys times of the good life.

Times may since have changed in Silay, particularly in terms of economy, but not the grandeur of the physical surroundings. The lavishness of Silay’s past is still very much around, at least hints of it. The good thing is that it may now be enjoyed by anyone, no longer exclusive to the original rich-and-famous residents and owners.

Being in the provincial city would quickly suck any traveler back in time. Its streets still echo footsteps from the past. And 29 surviving ancestral houses still breathe of opulence and elegance.

The National Historical Commission classified all of the extant structures in Silay as national treasures. Many of these structures are open to the public. Several have been rehabilitated and turned into museums, like The Balay Negrense, Don Bernardino Jalandoni Ancestral House, and Manuel Hofileña Heritage House.

According to travel writer Mai Flores, at www.insights.looloo.com, it takes only a day to visit all of Silay’s old houses. But she suggests that one stays in Silay for at least two or three days in order to fully experience the city. Flores lists five of the places to see:

Balay Negrense Museum

Restored by the Negros Cultural Foundation, the Balay Negrense Museum was once the residence of the family of Don Victor F. Gaston, a sugar baron who emigrated from Normandy, France. This beautiful property along the city’s Cinco de Noviembre Street was home to eight of Gaston’s 12 children.

The house has features of both Spanish and American colonial architecture. It has 12 bedrooms and two huge hallways. The two-storey hacienda house is made of stone and wood, with polished “balayong” (native hardwood tree) floors and a beautiful double staircase. Its exquisite set of furniture and décor is still there.

Manuel Severino Hofileña Museum

The house, which is located at the far end of Cinco de Noviembre Street, is the first ancestral home that opened to the public. It contains a great set of classic furniture and memorabilia, and keeps an exquisite collection of paintings from many distinguished Filipino artists – all owned by the very friendly Ramon Hofileña. The paintings include works of Luna, Hidalgo, Amorsolo, and Manansala, to name a few.

Bernardino Jalandoni Museum

Any visitor would not miss sight of the museum, as it’s the only “Pink House” in town. Not only is its exterior truly admirable, it also has the most rare and valuable pieces defining Silay’s history. It has antique wooden furniture and vintage photographs (mostly of other ancestral homes) on the ground floor. Upstairs, on the second floor, are kept and preserved the Jalandoni family’s old personal furnishings and belongings.

Cinco de Noviembre Street Marker

The marker is quite historic. It marks the location where the Filipinos and Spaniards first exchanged shots in the area. The clash is said to be the first bloodless rebellion in the Philippines. It took place on November 5, 1898, now observed as Negros Day.

Municipal Hall Museum

It is a small gallery – but packed with too much information, tracing Silay’s roots from way back until the present. A collection of dioramas, documents, and even pieces of clothing are displayed at the exhibition hall. Raymond Letaba