Versions of the “Kinilaw”

CEBU, Philippines — Filipinos are very much familiar with “kinilaw,” the ever-popular appetizer-cum-main course dish made of slices of fresh raw fish denatured in vinegar, herbs and spices.

Widely attributed to be a dish that’s endemic to the Philippines, variations of the dish can be found in many regions of the country – a reflection of how the Philippines’ archipelagic topography has made an impact in the country’s diversely rich culture.

At times referred to as “ceviche” (which is a Latin American dish that has similar ingredients and preparation) “kinilaw” is different from ceviche as it is traditionally prepared with vinegar, not citrus juices or extracts which are used in ceviche preparation.

Though most are okay to enjoy “kiniliaw” without the use of vinegar or citrus extracts, there are those who argue that “kinilaw” is not kinilaw if it is not prepared with vinegar; citing regional variations like “kinilaw” from Cagayan de Oro and Dumaguete City as prime examples.

Cagayan de Oro’s “Kinilaw de Oro”

Attributed to be one of the oldest “kinilaw” variations in the country, Cagayan de Oro’s “Kinilaw de Oro” is practically no different from “kinilaw” made in Cebu or Manila except for one key component: it is prepared with a fruit native to Mindanao named “tabon-tabon” (scientific name Atuna racemosa).

The “tabon-tabon” fruit, which is harvested from wild growing trees in Camiguin Island and in certain areas in Northern Mindanao, is pounded to a pulp with its sap extracted for “kinilaw.” The extract is added to a base preparation mix consisting of cubed slices of fresh raw fish, white vinegar, diced onions, ginger and chili.

Bearing physical characteristics akin to the sapodilla or chico fruit, the “tabon-tabon” fruit is known for a bitterness that blends well when combined with other “kinilaw” ingredients.

Dumaguete’s “Binakhaw”

Like the Cagayan de Oro “kinilaw” variant, Dumaguete City’s “Binakhaw” is prepared with a ‘secret ingredient’ in the “dungon” fruit (scientific name Heritiera sylvatica).

Unlike “Kinilaw de Oro,” though, and most of the regional “kinilaw” variants, there’s a difference in the way “Binakhaw” is prepared: a base mix composed of slices of fresh raw fish, diced onions, ginger and chili is first combined with vinegar then drained after the fish is ‘cooked’. Dungon extract is then added to the vinegar-drained mix to complete the dish.

Toppings such as sliced green mangoes and chicharon are typically associated with “Binakhaw.” The most traditional “Binakhaw” is noted to be served with dried bangasi (flying fish), instead of chicharon.

The “Tostado”of Santander, Cebu

Santander, at the southern tip of Cebu Island, is known for its Tostado Festival. The town’s festival takes its name from its famous delicacy – the “tostado.”

“Tostado” is a Spanish term that means ‘toasted’ in English. Curiously, Santander’s “tostado” is not toasted – but baked. It’s a kind of butter cookie made from sugar, flour, eggs and baking soda. The simple cookie is baked to a golden-brown color. It comes in different shapes, including star, the moon, and flowers.

Particularly during the town’s fiesta, the “tostado” figures prominently in the banquets. As the fiesta celebration is also a form of thanksgiving for abundant harvest, every house would prepare food and invite visitors in. It a folk belief that the more people enter their house on fiesta day, the more blessings the house residents would get in the following year.

“Tostado” is the popular take-home gift to visitors that come to the town during fiesta. It also makes a good snack for the people to munch on while on their way back home. Amazingly, the cookie can stand for months without spoiling.

The cookie is good to pair with ice cream or coffee. It is crunchy and at the same time fluffy. Many people like to dip it into their favorite drink. Tostado has a sweet, butter-milky taste.

The popularity of the delicacy qualified the “tostado” to be the name of the town’s yearly festival. The Tostado Festival was first celebrated in 2006 in Santander town.

The annual festival features street dancing, with choreography depicting the process of making “tostado.” The different barangays of the town participate. There’s also a tostado-making contest to identify the best “tostado” baker in the town.

Lately, the “tostado” makers of Santander make “tostado” in commercial quantities, for distribution to the different parts of the country and, at times, even abroad. The town delicacy is now a thriving home business, providing livelihood to the local people. It is, in a significant way, a boost to the town’s economic and tourism efforts. – Jessela Mae Macasero, CNU Communication Intern (Reference: www.cebuanosonsoutheline.blogspot.com)