The Colors of Santander

CEBU, Philippines - The tiny coastal town of Santander in the southernmost tip Cebu is a first-contact point for those crossing to or coming in from Negros Island.  In that sense, Santander is a gateway. More interestingly, its strategic location has had served an important function – as a first line of defense against Moro raiders who regularly sailed into the area all the way from North Mindanao.

Several ancient watchtowers – called “bantayan sa hari” by locals – are scattered in the key barangays of the town.  This is something Santander has in common with other coastal areas in both Cebu and Negros islands that had also experienced marauder strikes in the past.

In pre-Hispanic times, Santander was called Tanyong, after the Tañon Strait which connects the rest of Cebu to Negros.  It got its present name after the hometown of the Spanish priest assigned in the place nearly three centuries ago. The town used to be one of the barangays or barrios belonging to the municipality of Oslob, until Macario Culana, a political leader in Oslob, decided that Santander could very well stand on its own. In 1918, Santander became an independent town.

Lined with white sandy shores and coralline cliffs, the port town of Santander today is a far cry from the turbulent past that once haunted this paradise of a place. With only the crashing waves and the soft rustle of the breeze as it blows through the fire trees that fringe the town’s shores and cliffs, Santander offers both a wonderful beach escape and jump-off point towards the many adventures that await in the rest of the province. 

Getting There. If you’re coming from Cebu City, get on a yellow bus for Santander at the South Bus Terminal, any bus bound for Liloan Port or Bato, or Dumaguete. It takes you to the town. Ask the bus driver to drop you off at Santander.  The trip takes approximately three hours.

Those coming from Dumaguete City may board a yellow bus bound for Cebu at Dumaguete’s bus terminal.  At either Tampi or Sibulan, a barge takes the bus to the port of Bato, Santander.  Another option is to board the fast ferry in Sibulan for Liloan Port in Santander.  Travel time is approximately 15 to 45minutes, depending on which route you take.

Going Around. You can explore this quaint, quiet town on foot, or by bike, by tricycle, or by “habal-habal” (motorcycle for hire).  Most of the interesting places are within walking distance, including its string of beaches.

I usually take my car with me when exploring Cebu. In Santander, I parked my car in a good, safe place and went around Santander on foot.  Right from any of its three ports, Santander is already a sight to behold. It has one of the best, unobstructed views of the glittering Tañon Strait that quickly fills up with bobbing outriggers in the late afternoons.  The municipal waters are a clear, glassy aquamarine – so clean you can almost see through the bottom of the sea.

What to Do.

1. Take a trek. One of things I enjoy doing in Santander, especially in April and May, when it’s fire tree viewing season, is to take a trek all throughout the length of the town’s perimeter.  There is a road that cuts through what used to be a forest. I usually stick to the side where it’s safe and enjoy a long walk under a canopy of leaves.  It’s good to bring a walking stick – or simply pick up a fallen branch by the wayside – for the walk. One of these days, I’d like to try biking through this same path on a warm, sunny afternoon.

2. Spend a quiet day at the beach. Santander is one of the few places where you can still enjoy crystal clear waters and white sandy shores for free. So if you’re up for finishing your latest read amid a light breeze blowing, bring a beach blanket and choose your patch of sand in any of Santander’s public beaches. If you have some extra cash to spare, you can also opt to spend the day (and the night, maybe) in any of Santander’s beach and diving resorts.  Two of these resorts are located right next to the port.

3. Get VIP seats to Cebu’s Southern Lights. The sunset at Santander is just stunning. As the sun starts to hide behind the Negros mountains, the sunlight diffuses and the entire sky transforms from gold to red, and then to a cool cocktail of purple hues by dusk. Buy a drink from the Liloan Port and linger by the balustrades facing the Tañon Strait for a panoramic view of the calm sea that faithfully reflects the shifting colors of the sky. The celestial play of colors is reminiscent of the aurora borealis in Scandinavian countries. 

4. Explore Santander’s Secret Gardens. Santander may not have the kind of dive sights that places like Moalboal and Malapascua have.  But the town is stunning from its shores to its lush forests – and its underwater flora and fauna will not disappoint.

5. Take a Trip Down Memory Lane. As Cebu’s first line of defense against Moro raiders, watch towers are strategically placed in Poblacion and Liloan in order to warn the rest of the town of approaching intruders.  These watch towers have been around for more than two to three hundred years.  Take a quick morning stroll to explore the vestiges of Santander’s past.  Rub elbows with the locals and explore intermittent collections of old houses and buildings in Santander to take your trip into full circle.