CEBU, Philippines – La Chaine des Rotisseurs, an organization dedicated to the arts of the table, with roots in France, had its annual Christmas dinner gathering last month. It was the 21st - or rather the 20th such dinner in Cebu, since it was cancelled the previous year because of Typhoon Yolanda that struck Central Visayas. There were less Christmas street decorations and even lesser firecrackers, which - good thing at least - translated to lesser firecracker-related injuries.
This time there was a common compulsion to splurge with parties and celebrations, such activities being deemed inappropriate in 2013. For the La Chaine des Rotisseurs, a traditional formal French dinner was planned by the Marco Polo Plaza Hotel managers and the board of directors of the Baillage de Cebu.
Your favorite food writer is a member of the Chaine board here and it is our noble task to taste the dishes ahead of the members and make the necessary suggestions, if any, since majority of the dishes served during Chaine dinners are original creations. In other words, we have, excuse me, to taste the same dishes twice!
L' Entrée Froide (cold starter) was Rock Lobster & Scallop Terrine, Cured Smoked Mackerel, Dill Cream with Calamansi Flakes and Beetroot Salt, paired with Laurus Sud de France Viognier VDP 2011. Over 100 guests were present to savor this dish. The tangy flakes and salt gave the seafood its flavorful finish. A cold appetizer allows the kitchen brigade precious extra minutes to start heating the soup stock while the pre-cooked ingredients are dished out on the soup bowls.
The Potage (soup), Velvet of Barley & Asparagus, infused with Apple & Pear Juice was paired with Côtes de Provence Billette Rose 2011. The soup stock was served separately to ensure that the liquids were still hot because the guests, 128 of them, were served together all at the same time.
L' Entrée Chaude (warm starter) was the Goujon de Poisson Mérou with Spaghetti Squash, Aquavit Cream and Fish Pearls. This was paired with white wine, the Chablis 1st Cru Raoul Clerget 2011.
A long time ago, I would not order an item called "poisson something" because the word read like poison. Actually, "poisson mérou" means "grouper fish." I knew right during the menu tasting for this last dinner that the dish was a winner because the fillet had a very crusty pastry accompaniment.
A Sorbet, Fennel with Saffron, was served followed by the Le Plat Principal (Main Course), Tournedos de Boeuf, Port Wine Sauce & Paupiette de Saumon, Gluhwein Jam with Risoni Grains and Shredded Savoy Cabbage. Also called "surf 'n turf" because it combined seafood and meat, each was cooked separately because two different cooking temperatures were needed. Château Preuillac Cru Bourgeois rouge 2011 was a good match for both ingredients.
Fromage (Cheese) often accompany French formal dinners and, for this one, three were chosen: the Abondance, Roquefort and Taleggio, served with Glazed Banana, Muscatel Grapes and Crystal Mint. Last entry to this wonderful dinner was the dessert - Festive Kirsch Tart with Chocolate Crystal Ball, Loganberry Juice & Macerated Fruits, paired with Offley Ruby Porto. A spoonful of flaming liqueur was to be poured over the chocolate ball, providing a sweet finish to the Kirsch Tart.
Congratulations to the management and staff of Marco Polo Plaza Hotel for a very successful hosting of the magnificent dinner.
Happy Fiesta to everyone. "Sangpit sa Señor." Pit Señor!